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"id": 617,
"title": "102 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>Here at the north-west corner of what had been the Turner estate, a small house set back behind a shop was rebuilt in 1852 by and for William Miller, who had coffee rooms next door on the site of No. 104. A three-storey warehouse went up to the rear on Vine Court. Coffee rooms to the front were maintained, and the warehouse had been adapted to be a boarding house by 1890. Filomena and Antonio Fusco ran the café and boarding house from about 1909 to 1928. In 1930 the back building was adapted to be tailoring workrooms, demolished in the 1960s. The four-storey front block has had its brick façade rendered white. The shop now houses the Al-furqan bookshop.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks: District Surveyors Returns: Goad maps: Ordnance Survey maps: Post Office Directories: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control files 41893–4</p>\n",
"created": "2018-04-19",
"last_edited": "2018-08-09"
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{
"id": 522,
"title": "287-291 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>Development on this frontage (Nos 287–293) and manorial waste back to Ducking Pond Row can be traced to the 1620s when an establishment known as Daniel in the Lion’s Den was built by Daniel Allam. Henry Allam, a Whitechapel blacksmith and gunner, had leased the land in 1591. There were eight cottages grouped around by the 1650s. Thomas Grimley, a Mile End inn-holder, replaced these with five houses around 1701. The land later became part of the Spencer Phillips estate.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>In 1900 the Whitechapel & Bow Railway Company acquired an irregular group of small-scale properties at 287–291 Whitechapel Road. Redevelopment in 1907–8 for shops with dwellings above was on a lease from George Henry Schofield and may have been for Abraham Gold, a wholesale tobacconist. Henry Wharton Ford of Kilburn, who had other railway derived work in Whitechapel, was the architect, with his firm, Ford & Walton Ltd, being the builders. J. Lyons & Co. Ltd took up tenancy of the shop at No. 287. The little-altered group retains muscular console brackets. The paler brick of No. 291 is due to the removal of white paint or render around 2012.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Transport for London Group Archives (TfLGA), LT000555/617/1–8: London Metropolitan Archives, E/PHI/39,54–55,62–63,407–17</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: District Surveyors Returns: Post Office Directories: TfLGA, LT001611/028: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, L/THL/D/2/30/17</p>\n",
"created": "2017-11-30",
"last_edited": "2017-11-30"
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{
"id": 598,
"title": "A decade of change around Chamber Street",
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"body": "<p>Oliver Barry in conversation with Sarah Milne on 23 March 2018:</p>\n\n<p>\"I've been aware of Whitechapel for quite a number of years as a venue or a place for our ministry as a congregation. That goes back into the 1850s. I came here in 2011, with the idea of re-starting this house on Chamber Street as a retreat and spirituality centre, a Catholic retreat centre attached to the church on Prescot Street. I worked on the refurbishment of this building and then our aim was to be ready for the Olympics in 2012. We were just about ready [in time]! So we had a few little connecting points with the Olympics, just taking people in, an example would be a man who was working as a massage therapist for the athletes stayed with us, someone who was a chaplain stayed with us…that sort of thing. So then from 2012 it was just developing this centre as a retreat centre and being involved in the church on Prescot Street as part of the team there. </p>\n\n<p>We're part of a religious congregation that is called the Oblates of Mary Immaculate. That goes back to the 1820s in terms of its foundation, but in relation to here, [it goes back to] the 1840s, so I had an awareness…of the place that Tower Hill has had in the history of our congregation over that period of time [prior to my arrival in 2011]. I personally have been aware of [the Whitechapel ministry] since the day I joined the congregation, but because it had gone through a period of decline, and there was a possibility of everything closing down really, because the area was a bit of a derelict area and nothing happened at weekends because it was the fringe of the City. So it was busy during the week but then people moved away and there was very little residential accommodation. It was a deserted zone. This was pre-2000s. As you come into the 2000s it began to rejuvenate, that's my sense of it anyway. When you look at some of the photographs of the street in the pre-2000s, where the Grange Hotel is, that was just an old bombsite. [Since then] big developments…have gone on along Leman Street and the other things…are going on now…like the Royal College of Psychiatrists.</p>\n\n<p>When my colleague came here, which was nine years ago, one of the things that he constantly reminds us of was that there were no shops. We have Tescos and Sainsburys now, but for him to do any shopping, he had to go down as far as Monument. There was a little cornershop over the back of Tenter Street, but it was only a little...you couldn't do your shopping on it. That was nine years ago. It's changed dramatically. It's changing before our eyes really. And this street is changing even though it's a back street. Over the next few years it will change phenomenally, with the development on Royal Mint Street, which will open up onto this street through the arches. Then there is another predicted for a site maybe a hundred yards up the road here, at the back of the College of Psychiatrists. The planning permission was for apartments. It will probably have offices on the ground floor and apartments above.\"</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n",
"created": "2018-03-27",
"last_edited": "2020-08-04"
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"id": 81,
"title": "11-13 New Road",
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"id": 21,
"username": "IsobelWatson"
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"body": "<p>11-13 New Road (along with 28 Nelson Street) is a rare example of a surviving building, put up in 1906 by Abraham Davis, second of the seven builder brothers Davis. That there were no more buildings of his may be the result of other projects of his failing around this time, including another one in New Road and one on the Commercial Road nearby which had been intended for a cinema: he was in severe financial trouble arising from his promotion of the so-called 'Moorish market' in Fashion Street. There are buildings on a similar pattern at the north western end of New Road, built by his youngest brothers N & R Davis.</p>\n",
"created": "2016-07-04",
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"id": 226,
"title": "North side of Wellclose Square, 1967",
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"b_name": "George Leybourne House",
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"body": "<p>This digitised colour slide from the Tower Hamlets Archives collection shows the side of the building that preceded George Leybourne House just visible on the left. The Georgian houses, soon to be demolished, were slightly further east on the Square's north side, just beyond the Whitechapel border:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/777819192930304000\">https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/777819192930304000</a></p>\n",
"created": "2016-12-16",
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"id": 376,
"title": "Chuts in Whitechapel",
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"username": "maurice"
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"body": "<p>My forebears settled in Whitechapel in the 1850s, having migrated from Amsterdam. They were among a group of people known as Chuts, dubbed thus by their fellow Londoners, possibly in tribute to their overheard devotion to the Dutch word 'goed' (good) which is pronounced, roughly, 'choot' (the 'ch' pronounced as in the Scots). My family were recorded as living in various dwellings in Tewkesbury Buildings, and went on to establish Zeegen Brothers cigar factory in Chicksand Street. </p>\n",
"created": "2017-06-02",
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{
"id": 509,
"title": "257 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>The site of 255–259 Whitechapel Road was developed or redeveloped around 1675 when a 499-year manorial lease was granted. There are still buildings of a humble early scale here, perhaps with early nineteenth-century origins, though little old fabric appears to survive. Occupants of No. 257 have included Matthew Abley, an oil and colour man, around 1840. There was reconstruction after a fire in 1881. The building was extended back in 1936, and further rebuilding took place around 1975. The façade’s brickwork was re-exposed around 2012.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives, District Surveyors Returns: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control file 15530: Post Office Directories </p>\n",
"created": "2017-11-17",
"last_edited": "2017-11-17"
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{
"id": 497,
"title": "203–209 Whitechapel Road",
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"id": 2,
"username": "surveyoflondon"
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"street": "Whitechapel Road",
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"tags": [
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"body": "<p>This was once a uniform four-house terrace of 1865–8. Earlier buildings here, possibly originating in a 500-year lease of 1672, had housed Robert Gladding (1808–96), a bookseller on the site of Nos 203–205 from around 1830 to 1862 when he moved to 151 Whitechapel Road, and William Grayling, then Charles Brandum, oil and colour makers, at No. 207. That unit was rebuilt in 1906 after a fire, the work by Walter Gladding overseen by Henry Wharton Ford, acting as architect to the District Railway Company, which had become the freeholder. Thereafter William Brandum continued as an oil and colour maker. Gabled parapets like that which survives at No. 209 were replaced at Nos 203–205, probably in 1923. The polychrome brick facades were restored as part of High Street 2012.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives, Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks; District Surveyors Returns: Post Office Directories: The National Archives, IR58/84806/2320–1.</p>\n",
"created": "2017-11-17",
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"id": 449,
"title": "Victoria Home, Salvation Army Lifehouse, 177 Whitechapel Road",
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"address": "Victoria Court (Salvation Army Lifehouse), 177 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>The frontage at 177 Whitechapel Road was open until the 1890s. A yard to the rear (behind the sites of Nos 163–175), once part of the parish burial ground of 1614, pertained to Davenant School from 1767 to 1860 when it was sold to Bryant and May, general merchants and ‘lucifer’ or patent safety match manufacturers. William Bryant and Francis May had started importing matches in 1850 on Fenchurch Street and Tooley Street and, having obtained a patent for safety matches, were selling millions of boxes by September 1860 when they moved their headquarters to Whitechapel, from where they oversaw the building in 1861 of Fairfield Works in Bow, which was managed by Wilberforce Bryant and destined to become a notorious ‘model factory’. The firm’s general wholesale merchandising continued from the Whitechapel Road office and warehouse depot, managed by Francis May until he retired in 1868. The business was given up in 1873 and the property transferred to the Albion Brewery.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>Bryant and May’s Whitechapel Road property was sold in 1889 for the building of a Victoria Home for Working Men, a project seen through in 1890–1 with W. Gillbee Scott as architect and W. Hearn & Co. of Lancaster Gate as builders. The warehouses were replaced with a three-storey residential range, still leaving the frontage open. This was the second such home, following premises at 39–41 Commercial Street (see Rebecca Preston's contribution). The Victoria Homes had been founded around 1886 by Granville Augustus William Waldegrave, Baron Radstock, in partnership with other trustees, setting out to provide a better grade of accommodation than that available in lodging houses, with higher prices and a Christian mission. They were, however, more austere than the Rowton Houses that soon followed. A five-storey infill roadside block was added in 1896–7, with W. Howard Seth-Smith as architect, James Smith and Son of South Norwood, builders. It incorporated fire-resistant iron and concrete internal construction. Augustus Wilke was the first keeper and the premises, altogether designed for 500, housed 628 in 1903 and had 586 beds around a decade later. They comprised: in the front block, a ground-floor reading room (with billiard tables by 1903), basement dining hall and upper-storey dormitories; and in the back range, a ground-floor reading room (a chapel from 1903), basement dining hall with kitchens to the west, and elsewhere dormitories. An enclosed yard was used as a recreation ground.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>Financial difficulties caused by a severe loss of custom through the First World War led to a takeover of the establishment by the Salvation Army in 1918–19. Charges were 5<em>d</em> a night for dormitory accommodation, 7<em>d</em> for one of 128 private cubicles. Use declined until the premises were only housing about 200 men. The Victoria Home closed in 1984, its residents transferred to the now adjoining Booth House.[^3]</p>\n\n<p>It was rebuilt in 1995–6 by the Salvation Army Trustee Company (David Greenwood, chief architect), engaging GHM Architects Ltd (Ken McFadzean, job architect), and Lovell Construction Ltd as builders. This six-storey stock-brick-faced building is even more starkly forbidding than its predecessor. It was built to provide forty-three flats for single homeless men, along with workshops and service rooms. From its front block a glazed link connects to three-storey stock-brick-clad and hipped-roof rear ranges more or less on the same footprint as their predecessor. Now called Victoria Court, these premises are run with Booth House by the Salvation Army Housing Association. The Salvation Army has stopped using the term ‘hostel’, seeing it as carrying negative connotations, preferring Lifehouse.[^4]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Salvation Army Archives, VH/1/1: Post Office Directories: District Surveyors Returns: <em>Oxford Dictionary of National Biography</em>: Patrick Beaver, <em>The Match Makers: The story of Bryant & May</em>, 1985, pp. 36–8,43,52</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Salvation Army Archives, VH/1/1; VH/1/5/1: <em>The Builder</em>, 15 March 1890, p. 201; 11 April 1891, p. 301: District Surveyors Returns: The National Archives, IR58/84806/2303–4: London Metropolitan Archives, GLC/AR/BR/22/BA/009648: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control files 15520–1: Goad map 1890</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: Salvation Army Archives, VH/1/1; VH/1/5/1: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control file 15520</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control file 15519: <em>The War Cry</em>, 4 July 2015, p. 13</p>\n",
"created": "2017-08-24",
"last_edited": "2019-08-30"
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"id": 28,
"title": "Drinking in the Grave Maurice",
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"body": "<p>The last time I remember going for a drink in this pub must have been in about 2005. Pubs in the area were closing rapidly but the Grave Maurice appeared to be desperately hanging on. The interior was delightfully gloomy and there was an air of dilapidation. The clientele appeared to be mainly of Irish descent and some form of billiards was being played.</p>\n",
"created": null,
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{
"id": 277,
"title": "S. Schneiders & Son, Cavell Street, 1970s",
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"body": "<p>This undated slide, from the Tower Hamlets Archives Collection, is looking north past what was then the premises of S. Schneiders & Son, makers of suits and jackets, towards the Methodist Mission, built 1969-71 on the corner of Raven Row. This, along with the style of the parked cars, suggests the photograph was taken in the late 1970s.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/824619805546348544\">https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/824619805546348544</a></p>\n",
"created": "2017-02-15",
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{
"id": 634,
"title": "Gloucester Terrace, 11–95 New Road",
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"body": "<p>Development of the west side of New Road ensued from a decision in 1787 by the London Hospital’s Governors to develop their eight acres west of New Road on building leases. John Robinson, the Hospital’s Surveyor, advertised the prospect of 99-year leases in 1788, and by 1790 Thomas Barnes and John Langley had secured the first and most-westerly lots. Agreements for other sites were made in 1790, principally with Barnes, a bricklayer by origin and now proving himself a prolific builder. He took the whole west side of New Road south of Charlotte (Fieldgate) Street in three lots. At Barnes’s request, Robinson agreed in July 1790 to amend the specification for the storey heights of the intended three-storey and basement New Road houses, adhering to an elevational treatment that had presumably been determined by Robinson. Leases followed on once work was more or less complete.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>Barnes worked his way along the west side of New Road from north to south in 1790–7 building forty houses to form what was known as Gloucester Terrace until the introduction of continuous numbering in 1863. He was given a lease of the block immediately south of Charlotte Street in June 1792, with its houses (77–95 New Road) built or building on 16ft-wide plots. Evidently unfazed by the severe squeeze on credit and inflation that followed the outbreak of war in 1793, Barnes added the next block south as far as William (later Fordham) Street (Nos 49–75), and the southern block down to White Horse Street (Commercial Road) (Nos 11–47) in June 1796, when the houses were built or building. The southerly lease was renegotiated in March 1797 by when the houses were reportedly complete. Barnes had seen the task through efficiently at a difficult time for builders. He was all the same told off for having deviated from the hospital’s plans in places.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>Gloucester Terrace (11–95 New Road) is all but entirely outside the parish of Whitechapel in what was Mile End Old Town. A number of the houses of the 1790s still stand. There was general uniformity, but with variations. No. 43, for example, was apparently always a storey taller than its neighbours. It is otherwise broadly typical, though it and its neighbour at No. 45 were conservatively refronted in the late nineteenth century, copying original door surrounds with vermiculated stone quoins and Coade-stone keystones with mask reliefs. These survive elsewhere and the date 1797 can be seen on the soffit of the keystone at No. 33, another not entirely typical house in that it has a wider plot and a bow at the back.</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Royal London Hospital Library and Archive (RLHLH), House Committee Minutes (HCM), 15 May 1787, p. 285; 22 April and 1 July 1788, pp. 342,353; 23 Feb, 16 March, 15 June and 13 July 1790, pp. 103, 106, 122,126: RLHLH/F/10/3</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: RLHLH, HCM, 26 Sept 1797, p. 147: RLHLH/F/10/3: London Metropolitan Archives, Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks: Richard Horwood's maps, 1799 and 1813: Metropolitan Board of Works Minutes, 22 May 1863, p. 499</p>\n",
"created": "2018-05-09",
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{
"id": 635,
"title": "New Road's formation",
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"body": "<p>New Road was formed in 1754–6 in close connection with the London Hospital’s move to the south side of Whitechapel Road in 1752–7. Slightly earlier than the better-known New Road of 1756–7 (now Marylebone Road and Euston Road), it shared with its bigger north-westerly sister the attribute of being a bypass to built-up districts. More particularly, it made eastern Whitechapel (heretofore ‘town's end’) more accessible from riverside districts, linking what are now Cable Street and The Highway in the south to Whitechapel Road across entirely open fields. It more or less followed the line of Civil War defences, though this might be little more than coincidence. The road was enabled by an Act of Parliament and overseen by a body of trustees led by prominent commercial men from riverside districts (Jonathan Eade, a Wapping ship-chandler, John Shakespear, a Shadwell ropemaker, Joseph Curtis, a Wapping sea-biscuit maker, Hugh Roberts, a St George-in-the-East brewer, and William Camden, a Wapping ship-owner and slave-trader), some among them hospital governors. For these people good access to the hospital presumably mattered not just for themselves and their families, but also for their workforces. <br>\nNew Road’s frontages remained largely undeveloped for more than thirty years. Only the road’s northernmost end lies in Whitechapel parish. The connections formed there were first exploited for industrial use in the shape of carriage-making, present by the 1770s. Houses followed in the 1790s, but industry persisted and transformed, turning predominantly to clothing trades in the early twentieth century.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Derek Morris and Ken Cozens, <em>London's Sailortown 1600–1800</em>, 2014, p. 19: Derek Morris, <em>Whitechapel: 1600–1800</em>, 2011, p. 53: <em>An Account of the Rise, Progress and State of the London Hospital, </em>1775: Royal London Hospital Library and Archive, S/10/1: William Owen, ‘The Ichnography of the Cities of London and Westminster and the Borough of Southwark’, 1757</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n",
"created": "2018-05-09",
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{
"id": 510,
"title": "259 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>The site of 255–259 Whitechapel Road was developed or redeveloped around 1675 when a 499-year manorial lease was granted. There are still buildings of a humble early scale here, perhaps with early nineteenth-century origins, though little old fabric appears to survive. The shop at No. 259, then a glass warehouse, was where in 1884 Joseph Carey Merrick (the Elephant Man) was put on display and first encountered by Frederick Treves, the surgeon who took him to the London Hospital. The façade’s brickwork was re-exposed around 2012.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: The National Archives, IR58/84806/2347: London Metropolitan Archives, District Surveyors Returns: Post Office Directories: Peter Ford and Michael Howell, <em>The True History of the Elephant</em><em> Man: The definitive account of the tragic and extraordinary life of Joseph Carey Merrick</em>, 2010</p>\n",
"created": "2017-11-17",
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{
"id": 487,
"title": "Ley Street and Queen Matilda's 12th-century Bypass",
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"body": "<p><strong>This account describes how Ley Street, the original direct Roman road through Essex, became obscure and how the Chapel of St Mary Matfelon marks the point where Queen Matilda’s 12th-century bypass departed east from the Roman road to cross the two branches of the Lea further south with two new bow-arch bridges, each with their own chapels dedicated to St Mary, and converged with the original road just beyond a new bridge over the Roding also with a new chapel dedicated to St Mary, the Hospital Chapel of St Mary the Virgin at Ilford.</strong></p>\n\n<p>Ley Street, seen on the Chapman and Andre map of 1777 and named on later maps, is a short stretch of road in Ilford that once formed part of the original Roman military road through Essex. 'Ley' is an Anglo-Saxon term for a forest clearing and Ley Street was the road through the Essex forest from Caesaromagnus via Durolitum to the ford of the Roding at Ilford, built with the technology and resources of 1st-century AD surveyors, for military use during the invasion. The Great Essex Road converged with Ley Street beside the hospital Chapel of St Mary the Virgin just above the ford of the Roding and is a later, less direct Roman route through Essex. How then did Ley Street, the original direct route through the forest, become obscure to be replaced by the less direct route of the Great Essex Road?</p>\n\n<p>Rome controlled Britain for well over three centuries so there was plenty of time for new roads to develop serving the same destinations and for the original demands to make way for new patterns of connectivity and use. As the invasion advanced inland to the west and along the coast to the north the primary purpose of the roads in southern Britain changed from military to civilian use. The tactical and logistical roles of advancing the invasion inland changed to providing connectivity to the coast. Both functions depended on tidal access, which had already been developed before the invasion to support trade between Britain and Rome. The iron production of the Weald for the navy and the agricultural production of the East Coast for the Army had been strategic targets for the invasion. Once the invasion had advanced to the north beyond The Wash and west to Dorchester the estuaries of Kent and Essex including the Thames could start to be developed. Iron Age agriculture and industry already occupied the higher, well-drained land above the flood plains of the rivers, creeks and saltmarshes around the coast. Much of this estuary and coastal land had already been deforested and was above the risk of flooding. The Romans had the manpower and resources to increase agricultural production by draining and developing the flood-risk, low-lying land on the estuaries of the East Coast. The Thames Estuary with relatively low rainfall and high tides would be a good place to start. Here a dam across a tidal creek with a sluice at low tide could add a significant area of newly accessible and fertile land for agriculture requiring only a modest network of new drainage ditches, dykes and canals. Agriculture and industry developed across the Thames basin, where the busiest and safest roads became those serving the growing population that settled along the coast away from the forest. Watling Street on the south side ran close to the estuary, passing creeks and crossing tributaries on the way, so this remained the primary access route after the change from military to civilian use and the development of agriculture and industry. Ley Street on the north side ran further inland on higher ground without river access and for much of the way, from Colchester to the crossing of the River Lea, the road passed through the Essex forest. The population density and pattern of connectivity developed along the estuary rather than the military road through the forest and in time the route from Brentwood to the crossing of the Roding became busier and took precedence over the inland route from Navestock Side via Durolitum to the crossing of the Roding at Ilford. The lower route of the Great Essex Road with gentle gradients through Romford and Ilford was also better for bringing produce to market by ox and cart. The diversionary course of the road, to become known much later as the Great Essex Road passing through places like Ingatestone and Margaretting, suggests a route that evolved from subsidiary tracks between existing farmsteads as they became larger agricultural settlements during the Romano-British period. The changing alignment of the road through these settlements reflects the different alignments of earlier tracks between separate farmsteads.</p>\n\n<p>The less direct Great Essex Road, composed of subsidiary Roman roads, would not have been a recognised primary road of the ancient world. Furthermore, the Great Essex Road has no Saxon name while others exist for the main military Roman roads elsewhere. This encourages the view that Ley Street was the Saxon name for the original road that has been all but lost with the loss of the original military road. With over three centuries of development across South Essex and the Thames basin there was plenty of time for the old direct military road from Colchester to the crossing of the Lea to have declined during the Roman occupation and then been neglected after the army withdrew at the beginning of the fifth century. Undefended and unrepaired the old military road with steep gradients through the Essex forest, away from the settlements and access of the estuary, would have become relatively hazardous and neglected while the diversionary but more populous estuary route continued to develop. The site of a royal hunting lodge at Havering in the 7th century indicates that the old road still existed when Essex controlled London and use was still being made of the direct route from London into the forest. A later Saxon palace at Havering, complementing one at Old Windsor to the west, also suggests that the direct road still existed, ineed without some form of direct access it is doubtful that Havering-Atte-Bower could have become the site of a royal palace serving London.</p>\n\n<p>The Anglo-Saxon heptarchy, followed by the Viking invasions through the late 8th and early 9th centuries, shifted power to Wessex rendering the East Coast and Thames Estuary a frontier zone. It is probably in this period that the old direct Roman military road through Essex fell into disuse with parts becoming obscure. London itself waned as control passed from the Old Saxon settlement of Lundenvic, a western appendage outside the abandoned Roman walls, to the Danelaw of Mercia and the Vikings. It does not recover until Alfred the Great retakes London in 886 and establishes Lundenburg within the old walls in 889. The treaty of 886 between Alfred and Guthrum established the Danelaw boundary between Wessex and the Danes, following the River Lea to the Thames and then running east along the Estuary to the sea. Ermine Street from Lundenburg to Lincoln would have reached the frontier of Wessex at Ware and routes east from Lundenburg would have reached the frontier at Old Ford. The severing of routes to the east beyond the Lea would have placed emphasis on north–south connectivity at the expense of east–west connectivity within Mercia, resulting in the decline and final abandonment of the old direct Roman military road through Essex. After Alfred the Great’s son Edward the Elder had annexed Essex and East Anglia for Wessex London re-emerges as the dominant centre but from this time with a main northeast radial following the route of the Great Essex Road to Colchester.</p>\n\n<p>The growth of population in the vicinity of London would contribute to the next significant change in the course of the road through Essex. The proximity of the City led to the gradual change of the Manor of Stepney from a royal hunting ground to a populated area of market gardens held by the Bishop of London for supporting the Tower of London. Similarly, the land held by Barking Abbey on the east side of the River Lea down to the Thames was developed from forest chases to abbey estates and became more settled. The population increased on both sides of the River Lea south from the line of the Roman road through Old Ford. For the growing population on the land of Barking Abbey estates the crossing of the Lea at Old Ford represented a diversionary route to the City. At the same time what had before been a point of maximum divergence of the old road, at the crossing of the Roding, from the direct bearing between Chelmsford and London via Havering-Atte-Bower and Ilford now presented the possibility of an alternative and more direct route west from Ilford to the City crossing the branches of the River Lea south of Old Ford. Events came to a head in the early 12th century when the bridges and causeway of the route through Old Ford were in a poor state of repair and a risk to the lives of travellers during flood tides. Queen Matilda, wife of Henry 1, is said to have nearly drowned during a journey to Barking Abbey and in response ordered the construction of two new stone bridges and a causeway c.1110-1118. The bridge over the wider channel made use of bow-shaped arches, the first in this part of the country, hence the name Bow Bridge and in due course the name of Stratford-by-Bow on the west bank of the River Lea. Bow Bridge was located over half a mile south of Old Ford, thereby realising the more convenient and direct route from Barking Abbey to the City, serving the growing population along the north bank of the Thames estuary.</p>\n\n<p>Queen Matilda’s bypass is recorded by the route of the current main road, running some 10.9km from the Hospital Chapel of St Mary the Virgin at Ilford, by the bridge of the Roding, via Bow Bridge over the Lea to converge with the old road close to the Chapel of St Mary Matfelon, later known for the bright lime wash applied to its walls as the White Chapel. The ancient line of the Roman road through Whitechapel to Aldgate High Street can be traced along the rear property boundaries of the terraced plots fronting the northwest side of Whitechapel Road, from Durward Street, formerly Buck’s Row, across Vallance Road and Davenant Street to Greatorex Street. The frontage of Durward Street, the flank end-of-terrace wall on the west side of Vallance Road just north of the Whitechapel Road and the shallow turn and rise in the ground level on Davenant Street as it runs northwest from the Whitechapel Road all record the line of the old Roman road.</p>\n\n<p>Queen Matilda gave tidal mills and land at West Ham to Barking Abbey as an endowment for maintaining the new road and bridges. This led to a dispute involving Stratford-Langthorne, a Cistercian Abbey founded in 1135 and also dedicated to St Mary, which was not settled until 1315. Accordingly, it appears that there were originally four chapels of ease each founded c.1140 and dedicated to St Mary associated with Matilda’s new road, one by the merge with the old road at Whitechapel, another at the far end near the merge with the old road beyond the bridge at Ilford, this becoming the Hospital Chapel of St Mary the Virgin, one at Bow Bridge later becoming the church of St Mary and Holy Trinity, Stratford and another at West Ham on the east side of the Lea responsible for the Channelsea River Bridge later becoming the foundation church for Stratford-Langthorne Abbey. Matilda’s new road from the City, on its approach to Ilford, chose to cross the Roding on a new bridge a little south of the old one and align itself with the Ley Street, the old road heading northeast towards Havering-Atte-Bower rather than the road to Romford, indicating the continued significance of the old royal forest road at this time.</p>\n\n<p>It is notable that the chapels of ease for Queen Matilda’s bypass were aligned with the road rather than the traditional east–west axis for a church. The late 14th century Church of St Edward the Confessor at Romford is also aligned with the Great Essex Road and had replaced the old church located to the south closer to the ford of the Rom, indicating that this too had been founded to fund and manage a river crossing of the road, indeed the Great Essex Road through Romford and Brentwood may have become the main artery only after the construction of Matilda’s bypass, in due course resulting in the development of estates like Gidea Hall for Thomas Cooke, a draper in Cheapside who became Lord Mayor of London in 1462 and was appointed custodian of the forest at Havering. The old royal forest road from London across the Lea at Old Ford and on towards Hainault continued to be used into the 17th century, with Samuel Pepys recording rides into the countryside, a fashion that had been established centuries earlier. The Fairlop Fair in the 18th century, around the Fairlop Oak, an ancient tree that had a girth of thirty-six feet and cast shade over an acre of ground on Fairlop Chase in Hainault, was popular with the block and pump makers of Wapping. They journeyed to the fair via Old Ford and Woodford and returned via Ilford. Just as the route of the road through Essex had moved further south in response to a growing population along the estuary in the 2nd century so in the early 12th century the route from Ilford to the City had moved further south to serve the growing population along the estuary in the vicinity of London.</p>\n\n<p>From the 13th century the imparking of country estates contributed to the diversion and fragmentation of the original route. Wanstead Park embraced south western stretches of the Roman roads to Great Dunmow and Chelmsford. Havering, Bowers and Pyrgo Parks in the southwest, Writtle and Hylands Parks in the northeast, contributed to diverting Ley Street from its original direct course. The well-surveyed military road through the Essex forest is fragmented into diversionary by-ways around imparked estates.</p>\n\n<p>The forests of Epping, Hainault and Havering continued to be royal hunting grounds. A 1618 Liberty of Havering Map indicates the boundary of Havering Park following the bearing of Ley Street from Orange Tree Hill southwest to the South Gate and beyond. A tenement marked Brick Hill on the 1806 Ordnance Survey (OS) map and Havering Grange on the 19th-century OS map was known as Cely’s Place in the 16th century and held by the keeper of the gate, a post of some local significance. The gate provided an entrance from Collier Row Common to the royal hunting grounds at Havering. The line of the Roman road continued directly southwest from this gate to Ilford Bridge, following the surviving stretch of road called Ley Street. Accordingly Collier Row Common was a former purlieu of the forest and the most convenient way to reach the South Gate of the royal forest from London was along the line of the old Roman road, which defined the south-eastern purlieus of Epping, Hainault and Havering forests, passing on the way a series of gates into the forests; Forest Gate by Upton Park into Epping, Padnalls or Roselane Gate, Marks Gate and another Forest Gate at Collier Row into Hainault and finally South Gate from Collier Row Common into Havering Park. The ancient forest road, though not recognised as the original Roman road, had provided a direct route from the City to the royal hunting grounds of Essex.</p>\n\n<p>Padnalls is first named in 1303 and its 16th-century buildings stood in Rose Lane before being demolished in 1937. Marks Gate was named after the manor of Marks that had the right of estovers from Hainault Forest indicating a Saxon origin of the tenement. The route of the direct Roman road had continued to provide access from London to the royal hunting grounds through to the 17th century but once the purlieus and forest fringes were enclosed the road fell into disuse. The process was hastened by the disafforestation of Hainault Forest in 1851. The trees, mainly hornbeams, were grubbed up in 1853 and Forest Road, New North Road, Romford Road and Hainault Road were laid out by 1858 superseding the old routes. Ivan Margary’s attributes of a Roman road can be found on the old route from Ilford to the summit of Broxhill at Havering-Atte-Bower but little direct evidence survives. The lack of building materials in Essex compounded by the proximity of London probably resulted in the gravel of the road being robbed for use elsewhere or used in situ as hardstanding for houses and so the line of the road is obscured by development.</p>\n\n<p>The southern road through Romford and Brentwood was also diverted by imparking, for example where Gidea Hall deflected Hare Street south from the original line. The name Great Essex Road for the southern route, like the Great North Road is much later and dates from the turnpike trusts of the 17th and 18th centuries set up by Parliament to raise tolls for the upkeep of the principal roads. The turnpike trusts fell into decline with the rise of the railways in the 19th century and were abolished in 1888 when their powers were handed by Act of Parliament to the Local Authorities. The Ordnance Survey maps from the first edition of 1806 through the 19th and 20th centuries first helped to clarify the routes of Roman roads and then started identifying archaeological and historical sites. Through them the Great Essex Road became identified as the primary Roman road through Essex. Only with the recent, online Historic Environment Records and the tools of Google Earth can the traces of Ley Street, the original direct military road through Essex be re-established.</p>\n",
"created": "2017-10-13",
"last_edited": "2021-03-30"
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{
"id": 427,
"title": "Memories of Basil Henriques and the Bernhard Baron settlement",
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"body": "<p>Basil Henriques was the first Briton to driver a tank in the First World War. He was an Oxford graduate and a Justice of the Peace. He has a street named after him off Commercial Road which was firstly called Berner Street. He and his wife Rose who was an artist and a pianist started a youth club in one room in Cannon Street Road and later were bequeathed a building by Bernhard Baron called the Bernhard Baron Settlement in the-then Berner Street. They organized lots of activities for the children such as shows and other activities. They were known as the Mrs and the Gaffer. They bought a house in a village called Ugley near Bishop's Stortford and we used to get picked up and taken there for two weeks in the summer holiday each year. He received a knighthood from the Queen and so became Sir Basil Henriques. The club that he and his wife founded was called Oxford and St Georges which is still running but is in North West London. When Basil died 200 people attended his funeral.</p>\n\n<p>When they retired the people that took over the club were Miriam and Myer Sopel, the parents of Jon Sopel who is the BBC North America Editor.</p>\n",
"created": "2017-07-31",
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"id": 781,
"title": "St Marks House",
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"body": "<p>Opposite the Artful Dodger pub was St Mark's House originally St Mark's School built c.1841. It closed in 1939. In 1945 it was purchased by Freimullers Ships Stores. Eventually, St Mark's House was demolished to make way for the Docklands Light railway, approx mid 1980's .</p>\n",
"created": "2018-11-29",
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"id": 239,
"title": "North side of Whitechapel Road at the junction with Greatorex Street, 1971",
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"body": "<p>A colour slide from the collection of the Tower Hamlets Archives:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/750697479839055872\">https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/750697479839055872</a></p>\n",
"created": "2016-12-19",
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{
"id": 927,
"title": "52 to 72 Middlesex Street",
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"id": 2,
"username": "surveyoflondon"
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"body": "<p>Nos 52 to 54 and 62 to 72 Middlesex Street were built as four-storey shop-houses in 1885-6 by James Hartnoll, better known as a builder of artisans’ dwellings, including the vast Brunswick Buildings in Goulston Street.[^1] In 1886 Hartnoll advertised them for let as shops with basements and fitted as living rooms above, ‘but could be let for business purposes’, a draw for ‘chemist or medical man, oilman, greengrocer baker, confectioner, butcher, coffee house’, was the presence of ‘one thousand model dwellings within a stone’s throw’, and that approximated the mix of occupants, though in the 1960s and 1970s the rag trade predominated, many replaced by food outlets in recent years.[^2] In 2010 at the initiative of Jessica Tibbles of the Electric Blue Gallery, at No. 64 in 2009-2014, the shutters of all the shops on the east side of Middlesex Street (16 to 22, now demolished, 38 to 48, and 52 to 72), and four in Wentworth Street, were painted with all 26 letters of the alphabet by the street artist Ben Eine with large colourful graphic letters, a feature that can be seen on shutters all over East London.[^3] </p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives, District Surveyor's Returns (DSR): <em>Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper</em>, 16 June 1886, p. 2</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: <em>Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper</em>, 4 April 1886, p. 10: Post Office Directories (POD)</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: <a href=\"http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/06/07/the-return-of-ben-eine-street-artist/\">http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/06/07/the-return-of-ben-eine-street-artist/</a>: <a href=\"https://www.flickr.com/groups/letters_from_eine/pool/\">https://www.flickr.com/groups/letters_from_eine/pool/</a></p>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p> </p>\n",
"created": "2019-06-05",
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{
"id": 249,
"title": "Former LCC school, c. 1960s",
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"body": "<p>The south (Winthrop Street) front of the former LCC Board from a digitised colour slide in the Tower Hamlets Archives collection:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/811179494132350976\">https://twitter.com/LBTHArchives/status/811179494132350976</a></p>\n",
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