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"id": 174,
"title": "The last East End sugarhouse, 1807-1961",
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"id": 69,
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"body": "<p>'On Monday night, about nine o'clock, the greatest excitement was created in the immediate neighbourhood of Whitechapel, by a most destructive conflagration breaking out in the extensive premises of Mr Zabell, sugar-baker, situated in the rear of the houses (forming a square) in King Edward-street, Princes-street, Dunk-street and Halifax-street, on the north side of Mile-end-road, and most densely populated by poor people. ... The flames were ... roaring with uncontrollable violence from every window of the factory, which stands by itself, five stories in height, producing utter dismay to the surrounding inhabitants, whose houses and habitations were, though detached, within reach of the fire. The only approach to the factory was a small and narrow gateway, and through no less than forty dwellings.\" [^1]</p>\n\n<p>Having been run by John Court Dirs from 1807, and then by others, this sugarhouse was in the possession of Frederick William Zabell for maybe 10 years before it was burned to a shell in 1838. It was rebuilt and Zabell continued working there until at least 1845. In 1855 Ernst L. V. Schwier took the sugarhouse at 39 Dunk St. Within a few years he became blind - a hereditary condition which also affected his three sons, who in turn became successful sugar refiners there. In 1897, after all other sugar refining in the East End had ceased, the long established family firm of Martineau's took over the sugarhouse, expanded it to include premises on King Edward St, and continued operating until 1961. [^2] Bloomfield House, Old Montague Street, now occupies the site.</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: <em>Essex Herald</em>, 4 Dec 1838. www.mawer.clara.net/fires.html#zabell</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Sugar Refiners & Sugarbakers. www.mawer.clara.net/schwier.html</p>\n",
"created": "2016-11-01",
"last_edited": "2017-03-17"
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"id": 153,
"title": "Henrietta Barnett and Vallance Gardens ",
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"body": "<p>Henrietta Barnett and her husband, Samuel, moved to Whitechapel in 1872 when Samuel became the vicar of St Jude's Church. Henrietta was a protegee of Octavia Hill, having worked with her in Marylebone as one of her \"District Visitors\". This work entailed housing poor families and advising them on managing their expenditure and family welfare. </p>\n\n<p>Octavia recognised how important it was for poor families living in crowded and polluted urban areas to have open spaces and parks to relax and play in. She worked with the Open Spaces Committee of the Kyrle Society to provide these by converting disused burial grounds and churchyards into parks for the poor.</p>\n\n<p>Henrietta followed this idea and sought to provide parks for children living in cramped Whitechapel tenements, hoping to remove them from the area's overcrowded streets where crime and violence were endemic. To achieve this, she opened a playground in Wentworth Street, but when vandalism forced its closure, she transformed a disused Quaker's Burial Ground, established in 1687, into Baker's Row Park for the children. </p>\n\n<p>The design of the new park, which was opened in 1880, may well have been created by Fanny Wilkinson, who is regarded as the first women landscape designer in the country. A photograph of it in Mrs Basil Holmes' book, the London Burial Grounds, 1896, closely resembles Fanny's designs elsewhere in London, for the conversion of burial grounds, although Baker's Row is on a smaller scale. The park had curved paths which surrounded lawns interspersed with trees and rose beds. Mrs Holmes described the park as \"well laid out and kept and chiefly used by children\", illustrated by the photograph in her book.</p>\n\n<p>Providing this park not only gave local children a safe place in which to play, but also a rudimentary knowledge of gardening - something Henrietta regarded as crucial to their education and well being. She later recalled that by 1886, children in Whitechapel, \"romped in the playing fields, dug and delivered little gardens\" whilst \"flowers grew in windows\". </p>\n\n<p>In 1896, Baker's Row was renamed Vallance Road in honour of Mr W. Vallance, the Clerk to the Metropolitan Board of Guardians. The park then became Vallance Road Recreation Ground.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]:Mrs Basil Holmes, <em>London Burial Grounds: Notes on their history from earliest times to the present day</em>, Macmillan, 1896. <em>Vallance Gardens on London Gardens Online</em>; Henrietta Barnett, <em>Canon Barnett: His life, work, and friends, Vol. 2</em>, John Murray, London: 1918, p. 289; Elizabeth Crawford, <em>Enterprising Women, The Garretts and their Circle</em>, Francis Boutle, London: 2002, Chapter Five.</p>\n",
"created": "2016-10-25",
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"title": "Residents' campaign to save Treves House and Lister House, 2017",
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"body": "<p>Three long-term residents of Treves House and Lister House from varied backgrounds are fighting plans being considered by Tower Hamlets council to demolish their blocks of social housing flats. </p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/jul/28/social-cleansing-whitechapel-east-london-fighting-demolitions\">https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/jul/28/social-cleansing-whitechapel-east-london-fighting-demolitions</a></p>\n",
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"id": 157,
"title": "Gardiner's Corner",
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"body": "<p>I remember Gardiner's (of Gardiner's Corner fame), and lived in Aldgate (East) in the early 1950's. My mum bought me some socks there once. Aldgate East was at that time busy with buses, trolleybuses, and I seem to recall trams, and duty policemen directing traffic. I recall a cyclist, with a modern bike with narrow tyres, getting a wheel trapped in the tram centre rail. The bike wheel was bent beyond repair.</p>\n",
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"id": 490,
"title": "299 Whitechapel Road (formerly the Lord Nelson public house)",
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"body": "<p>The predecessor of the present building at 299 Whitechapel Road was a pub and victualling house with a skittle ground to the rear. This was known as the Babes in the Wood in the eighteenth century, the property having been first developed on a 500-year manorial lease in the seventeenth century. Daniel Mendoza (1765–1836), the self-styled ‘pugilist’, a prize-fighter and the boxing champion of England in 1792–5, became the landlord here after losing his title. Aldgate born and of Portuguese-Jewish descent, Mendoza was credited by Francis Place with curtailing the abuse of Jews by setting up a school that taught other Jews how to box. It is likely that it was Mendoza who renamed this establishment, perhaps as the Admiral Nelson in the first instance. Mendoza and his wife (also cousin) Esther raised six children here in relative quietude. They had moved on by 1812 after which the establishment was known as the Lord Nelson. Nelson Court (later Nelson Place), to the rear and entered under the pub’s east side, had been Yorkshire Court (or May’s Alley), ten houses present by 1740 and owned by the Fairfax family of the Grave Maurice (see 269 Whitechapel Road).[^1]</p>\n\n<p>The Lord Nelson was rebuilt in 1876 to plans by R. C. James, architect, with W. E. Young of Leytonstone as the builder. Fire damage in 1888 appears to have caused the building to be reduced a storey in height. The pub closed around 1903 having lost its back parts to the Whitechapel & Bow Railway a few years earlier. The facade brickwork was cleaned up as part of the High Street 2012 project. A handsome staircase with twist balusters and newel post survived into the 1990s.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives, Land Tax returns: Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks: Transport for London Group Archives, LT000555/486,593; LT002051/1076,2044: BL, Add. MS 27827, ff.145–6: <em>Oxford Dictionary of National Biography</em>: Pierce Egan, <em>Boxiana; or, sketches of ancient and modern pugilism</em>, vol. 1, 1812, p.229: ed. Paul Magriel, <em>The memoirs of the life of Daniel Mendoza</em>, 1951, pp.107–8.</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: District Surveyors Returns: <em>The Builder</em>, 24 June 1876, p. 626: Post Office Directories.</p>\n",
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"body": "<p>This former pub at 233 Whitechapel Road was called the Star & Garter. It was present here by 1807, when the landlady was a Mrs Chandler - we know this because she gave evidence in the Old Bailey trial of 23 year old Sarah Young, who was found guilty of stealing a watch from an elderly man who lived nearby and was sentenced to transportation for seven years.</p>\n\n<p>For much of its history the pub was tied to the nearby Charrington's Brewery of Mile End Road. From personal observation, in 1991 it was acquired by the Charles Wells Brewery of Bedford. It survived for a further ten years before closing in 2001 and becoming a fast food outlet.</p>\n",
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"title": "Charles Hastings, shoemaker, of 14 Brick Lane",
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"body": "<p>This is the site of an earlier house, numbered 14 Brick Lane. Charles Hastings, boot & shoemaker, lived here with his family in the first half of the C19th until his death in 1841. His son Thomas, also a shoemaker, continued to live in the house until his own death aged 36 in 1845. </p><p>Charles was christened in St James, Westminster in 1776. He married his first wife at St Mary Whitechapel in 1794, & at the christening of their son, William Joshua, in 1795 his address is listed as Brick Lane although no house number is given. The next christening in 1796 has him in Flower & Dean St, Spitalfields & then he is back in Brick Lane Whitechapel by 1799. The Land Tax Register lists him as a tenant in Brick Lane from 1816 - 1847. He is listed in various London trade directories as a boot & shoemaker at 14 Brick Lane between 1817 & 1839. He died on 10th Sept 1841 while still living at no. 14 & the death was registered by his son Thomas, also a shoemaker of no. 14. Thomas is listed there on the electoral registers for 1843 & 1844 & died there on 20th Feb 1845, aged 36.</p>",
"created": "2017-06-22",
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"body": "<p>Land near here along what is now Old Montague Street was occupied by a Robert Baker in 1707. He was perhaps a relative of John Baker, a joiner-developer who built houses in the vicinity and further east in the years up to 1689, and to whom the name Baker’s Row for what became Vallance Road in 1896 was probably due. William Vallance was the long-serving Clerk to the Whitechapel Board of Guardians. Curiously or otherwise, a William Vallance of Sittingbourne had a mortgage on adjacent Whitechapel Road properties from 1831. The earlier name applied by the 1740s when there were just a few scattered buildings on the west side. By the 1790s the frontage was fully built up south of the junction with White’s Row (Durward Street) opposite. The Weavers Arms public house (roughly on the site of 13 Vallance Road) was present by 1784 as a three-storey two-bay building. John Wildman, the pumpmaker based at 187 Whitechapel Road, took a 61-year Digby lease of a frontage north of the pub and a narrow passage for a seven-house speculation of 1806–7 in which Major Rohde and Samuel Page were involved, along with John Hammack, a Shadwell carpenter, and William Horncastle, a bricklayer who lived in one of the houses. By this time the King’s Head public house was at the Old Montague Street corner. Further south, Fan Court (five houses) and Maria Court (four houses) were inserted around 1815.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>In 1870 a joint deputation from the Whitechapel District Board of Works and the vestries of Bethnal Green and St George in the East presented a case for the widening of Baker’s Row to the Metropolitan Board of Works, an improvement that had been advanced as desirable since the 1830s. Very narrow (11ft), the ‘road’ was only a footway, impassable by carriages, and a bottleneck for north–south traffic to and from the docks. The local authorities proposed clearance on the west side, where redevelopment was said anyway to be intended. This went ahead, the boards of works splitting the costs of work carried out in 1872–4 with wood paving.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>Donald Munro of the Pavilion Theatre and MBW acquired the whole new frontage at the south end of Baker’s Row’s west side.[^3] At No. 13 the Weavers Arms was rebuilt in 1873–4 as a four-bay three-storey pub, by Kelly Brothers of Camden Town. Its diagonal north party wall reflects the line of a former passage that gave access to the south-east corner of the theatre. In 1911 Morris Cohen, who had a fried-fish shop across the road, converted the pub to be shops and tenements, with David Goldberg as his builder. Nos 3–11 were built for Munro along with Nos 15–29 in 1873–6, shophouses punctuated for access to the theatre that stood behi. These distinctive rows with their rendered upper-storey arches bearing incised ornament were probably designed by Jethro T. Robinson, who was then the theatre’s architect. No. 9 breaks the rhythm of the arcade; its open ground floor gave access to theatre workshops. Similarly, No. 17 had an entrance to the galleries and No. 27 had the stage door with a tall entrance for the scene dock. Nos 15–29 were demolished by the London County Council in 1962. No. 1 Vallance Road looks like post-war refronting of a 1870s shophouse that may not have conformed with Munro’s speculation. At the Old Montague Street corner the King’s Head was rebuilt independently, perhaps not until 1887. It was converted to shops and flats in 1937–8, and cleared in the 1970s.[^4]</p>\n\n<p>Nos 1–11 survived in the ownership of public authorities, Transport for London and Tower Hamlets Council, but fell into dereliction and were scaffolded by 2008. Tower Hamlets proposed demolition, believing the row to be a dangerous structure. This was successfully resisted on conservation grounds in 2014 since when plans for redevelopment behind retained facades with a fifteen-storey tower have been prepared by Fletcher Priest Architects.[^5]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: John Rocque's map, 1746: Ancestry: Richard Horwood's map, 1813: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives (hereafter THLHLA), P/RIV/1/15/4/2; P/RIV/1/15/8–10; L/WBW/13/3/1 and 12–14: London Metropolitan Archives, E/BN/086–98,109,124,141, 148; Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks: London County Council Minutes, 21 Jan. 1896, p. 45</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Parliamentary Papers, 1837–8 (447), XXVIII, 145, <em>Fourth Annual Report of the Poor Law Commissioners</em>, Appx A, p.96: Metropolitan Board of Works Minutes, 21 Oct. and 16 Dec. 1870, pp. 467–8,752; 15 March 1872, p. 379; 2 Jan. 1874, p. 19; 28 Jan. 1876, p. 111</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: THLHLA, L/WBW/13/8/4; /13/13/1 and /13/15; P/MIS/157: Ordnance Survey maps, 1873 and 1894</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: District Surveyors Returns: Ordnance Survey maps: Historic England Archives, aerial photographs</p>\n\n<p>[^5]: Information kindly supplied by Ann Robey: Tower Hamlets planning applications online: Spitalfields Life, 12 Jan. and 17 April 2014</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n",
"created": "2017-08-25",
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"body": "<p>An earlier four-storey shophouse here was probably part of redevelopment of around 1805 by Thomas Barnes. It was occupied by Thomas Fenwick, linen draper, haberdasher, hosier and glover, from about 1820 and then Fenwick & King (his widow, Eleanor Fenwick and Matthew King), linen-drapers, to 1882. Rebuilding in 1924 was for Cissie Applebaum, Jane Freedman (both born Matterman, and the wives of Harry Applebaum and Hyam Freedman), and Yetta Matterman (wife of Reuben Matterman), dressmakers and milliners of 297 Whitechapel Road, trading as Appleby & Matty. They had a hairdressing salon here, their gown shop being next door at No. 275. Lionel M. Parr was the architect and W. S. Sharpin built the premises to be as tall as the Prudential’s on the other side, though they are far plainer and cruder. An upper storey was later used as a billiard room, and in the 1950s the building was tenanted by Stepney Borough Communist Party.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives, Tower Hamlets Commissioners of Sewers ratebooks; District Surveyors Returns: Post Office Directories: Tpwer Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control file 17204: Transport for London Group Archives, LT001611/041; LT002009/449</p>\n",
"created": "2017-11-28",
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{
"id": 272,
"title": "Recollections of a student at the London Hospital School of Physiotherapy, 1957–60",
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"body": "<h3>Excerpt from an anonymous note dated 1957–60 [^1] </h3>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p>Do you remember?</p>\n\n<p>Long starched overalls, high to the neck, tied with a brown tie, showing only inches of ankle. Endless buttons – a nightmare if you were late for inspection.</p>\n\n<p>Carrying <em>Gray’s</em> home on the train – plus a few forbidden bones to study – eyed by nervous commuters.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>Late morning dissections in the medical school – followed by lunch.</p>\n\n<p>Our first patients – innocent victims.</p>\n\n<p>Forbidden V.V.L. sessions, prelim to summer.</p>\n\n<p>Tea – hunks of French bread coated with butter, and anything else we could find to eat. Trying to find a space on the roof to sunbathe. A blissful thirty minutes. Result – very little sunshine and soot-speckled uniforms.</p>\n\n<p>Waiting for exam results – hoping to stay with your own year. Results – a training which left us with a sense of purpose and capable of coping with most problems which would come our way. To new students – don’t give up you have a wonderful future.</p>\n\n<p>Anon., 1957–60 </p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Royal London Hospital Archives, RLHPY/U/9, File of correspondence and administrative papers, 1950–86.</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: <em>Gray's</em> refers to <em>Gray's Anatomy</em>, an essential, and bulky, textbook.</p>\n",
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"title": "Former Outpatients Annexe, Stepney Way",
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"body": "<p>The former Outpatients Annexe of the Royal London Hospital stands at the north-east corner of the junction between New Road and Stepney Way. This substantial block was built in 1935–6 to designs by Adams, Holden & Pearson to provide a centre for the hospital’s Department of Physical Medicine and a newly established School of Physiotherapy. This school benefited from the closure of the Westminster Hospital’s School of Massage and Medical Gymnastics, which transferred staff and students to the London Hospital’s ‘large and well-equipped’ new facilities. In the 1930s the department offered a variety of treatments, including electrotherapy, gymnastics, hydrotherapy and massage, and performed electrodiagnosis for the entire hospital.[^1]</p>\n\n<p><img alt=\"\" src=\"/media/uploads/2017/03/20/sol-whitechapel100127.jpg\"><em>The fomer Outpatients Annexe in Stepney Way, photographed from the south-west by Derek Kendall in 2016.</em></p>\n\n<p>This diverse department traced its roots to the beginning of the twentieth century, when the construction of the <a href=\"https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/1188/detail/\">Outpatients Department</a> coincided with growing medical interest in physiotherapy. Electrical, bath and massage suites had been installed in the new building on its completion in 1903. A few years later, the massage unit moved to vacant rooms in the basement of the <a href=\"https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/1233/detail/\">Alexandra Wing</a> that had previously been occupied by the surgical outpatients’ department. At this time, nurses were trained in Swedish massage and gymnastics under the supervision of Professor Koch, judged to be ‘an extremely skilled manipulator’ despite his lack of formal training.[^2] Koch’s first students were taught with Swedish textbooks and qualified as nurse masseuses, positions of elevated status in the nursing staff. Electrical, bath and massage therapies at the hospital were united in 1911 at the instigation of Dr Robert Stanton Woods (later knighted for his treatment of George V in 1928), and the Department of Physical Medicine was formally established six years later.[^3]</p>\n\n<p>Despite these steps towards administrative coherence, the various treatments under the newly established department remained scattered around the hospital. Plans to unite the department in a new building were delayed by the First World War and subsequent financial constraints. Several designs for a massage and electrical department were produced in the 1920s by J. G. Oatley, the hospital’s surveyor. From the outset, the site at the west end of the Outpatients Department was earmarked for the building. This piece of ground fronting New Road was occupied by early nineteenth-century terraced houses and a purpose-built house for the hospital’s receiving room officers. Oatley’s estimate of £27,000 eclipsed a gift towards the cost of the building from Sir Harry Mallaby-Deeley, 1st Bt. Despite proposals to pare down Oatley’s plans or construct the building in stages as funds permitted, the scheme was deferred.[^4]</p>\n\n<p><img alt=\"\" src=\"/media/uploads/2017/03/20/sol-whitechapel100119.jpg\"></p>\n\n<p><em>The former Outpatients Annexe from the north-east, photographed by Derek Kendall in 2016.</em></p>\n\n<p>The pressing need to unify the Department of Physical Medicine led to the renewal of building plans in 1934. By this time, the transferral of the receiving room officers to the Residents’ Hostel averted the complication of displacing staff. The House Committee recollected that Oatley’s costly design was ‘possibly unnecessarily large and elaborate’, and ventured to select a new architect.[^5] A proposal to invite three architects to compete was rejected as ‘very cumbersome’, and the committee decided to approach an architectural firm with hospital experience.[^6] Investigations were led by a building sub-committee that included Sir W. H. Goschen, Chairman of the House Committee, and Sir Albert Stern, banker, amongst its four members. Goschen’s enquiries encouraged him to recommend Collcutt & Hamp and Adams, Holden & Pearson as suitable practices ‘well known for their hospital work’. The latter firm was also endorsed by H. A. Sandford, a consulting engineer, and was invited to draw up plans.[^7]</p>\n\n<p><img alt=\"\" src=\"/media/uploads/2017/03/20/sol-whitechapel100123.jpg\"><em>The west elevation of the former Outpatients Annexe, photographed by Derek Kendall in 2016.</em></p>\n\n<p>Despite the rejection of Oatley’s earlier plans on the grounds of extravagance, the renewed scheme benefitted from an enlarged budget. The hospital’s ambitions for the Department of Physical Medicine had also augmented under the influence of Stern, who had visited similar departments in rival hospitals in 1930. He determined that the London Hospital was ‘far behind other hospitals’ not only in the need for an adequate massage and electrical department, but in its lack of a school of massage. Stern consequently pressed for an additional storey to be allocated to teaching. Stern’s insights were supplemented by Dr Woods’s advice concerning his department’s requirements.[^8]</p>\n\n<p>The new design was probably overseen by Lionel G. Pearson, who in July 1935 presented a paper before the Royal Sanitary Institute on ‘The Hospital of the Future’. Pearson envisaged functional hospital buildings planned along Modernist lines, or ‘resembling an athlete trained to the last ounce of flesh’.[^9] He promoted construction in steel, brick and concrete, large metal-framed windows, and flat roofs to provide useable spaces and the potential for upwards extension. Many of these elements were incorporated in his design for the London Hospital's Department of Physical Medicine, which possesses a bulky, functional appearance with chamfered corners, metal-framed windows, and a flat roof behind a plain parapet wall. Its exterior is enveloped by plain brick bands separated by thick concrete strings, a motif repeated elsewhere by Adams, Holden & Pearson in the 1930s, such as at the Westbury Court flats above Clapham South tube station.[^10]</p>\n\n<p><img alt=\"\" src=\"/media/uploads/2017/03/20/sol-whitechapel100128.jpg\"><em>View of the former Outpatients Department from Stepney Way, photographed by Derek Kendall in 2016.</em></p>\n\n<p>A tender of £34,484 from Prestige & Co. was accepted for the building in October 1935, and the Trussed Concrete Steel Co. were engaged as reinforced-concrete engineers. Construction was completed in the following autumn to unite the Department of Physical Medicine and provide a base for a School of Physiotherapy. The final design squeezed treatment and teaching rooms into an E-shaped four-storey block with a basement. The building was accessed directly from the west end of the Outpatients Department at basement and ground-floor levels. A basement subway provided access to a hydrotherapy pool, staff and service rooms. On the ground floor, a corridor opened into an entrance lobby with a staircase and bed lift. A central waiting hall was bounded to the west by a suite of medical staff rooms overlooking New Road. Large treatment rooms for women and men were positioned at the ends of the building, each adjacent to changing rooms and top-lit spaces for Swedish exercises. This internal arrangement was repeated on the first floor, with the exception that its treatment rooms were divided into cubicles for electrical and light therapies. The second floor comprised the School of Physiotherapy, which boasted a large top-lit gymnasium at its south end. A small library was positioned next to the main staircase, which opened into a locker room. The school contained three classrooms and a series of rooms for the teaching staff and nurses. A student common room, an afterthought devised by Pearson, was built on the third floor. The adjacent flat roof provided additional space for exercises, including respiration classes for asthmatics. It was also a popular sunbathing spot amongst students, though not without the risk of ‘soot-speckled uniforms’.[^11]</p>\n\n<p>The absence of a street entrance accounts for the building’s designation as the Outpatients Annexe. Post-war alterations include a roof extension constructed in conformity with the block’s distinctive striped exterior. By the 1970s, the basement contained the hospital’s medical records department. The building has been vacant since the hospital moved to <a href=\"https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/1055/detail/\">new premises</a> in 2012, and redevelopment seems likely.[^12]</p>\n\n<p><img alt=\"\" src=\"/media/uploads/2017/03/20/sol-whitechapel100124.jpg\"><em>The west elevation of the former Outpatients Annexe, photographed by Derek Kendall in 2016</em>.</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: RIBA, Adams, Holden & Pearson Archive, Box 18, No. 366, ‘Department of Physical Medicine at the London Hospital’, <em>British Medical Journal</em>, 12 December 1936.</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Royal London Hospital Archive & Museum (RLHA), RLHLH/A/17/24, Notes on the Massage Department from Minute Books, 9 March 1907.</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/17/24; W. S. Tegner, Michael Mason and C. G. Barnes, ‘The London Hospital Department of Physical Medicine and Rheumatology’, <em>Rheumatology </em>(1970), pp. 218–222; RLHA, RLHLH/A/5/49, pp. 506–8.</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/17/24, Notes on Electrical and Massage Department from Minute Books.</p>\n\n<p>[^5]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/5/62, p. 175.</p>\n\n<p>[^6]: RLHA, RHLH/A/17/24, Notes on Electrical and Massage Department from Minute Books.</p>\n\n<p>[^7]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/17/24, Notes on Electrical and Massage Department from Minute Books, 17 September 1934; RLHA, RLHLH/A/5/62, 18 June 1934, p. 230.</p>\n\n<p>[^8]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/17/24, Notes on Electrical and Massage Department from Minute Books, 7 July 1930.</p>\n\n<p>[^9]: RIBA Adams, Holden & Pearson Archive, Box 18, L. G. Pearson, ‘The Hospital of the Future’, <em>Journal of the Royal Sanitary Institute</em>, Vol. 56, 3 (March 1935), pp. 148–52.</p>\n\n<p>[^10]: RLHA, RLHLH/A/5/63, 7 January 1935, pp. 98, 232; RIBA Adams, Holden & Pearson Archive, Box 18, No. 163, <em>Architect</em>, 25 October 1935, and No. 345, <em>British Journal of Physical Medicine</em>, December 1936.</p>\n\n<p>[^11]: RLHA, RLHLH/S/2/77, Department of Physical Medicine: building plans and elevations, 1935–1936; RLHA, RLHLH/A/5/63, p. 175; RIBA Adams, Holden and Pearson Archive, Box 18, No. 345, <em>British Journal of Physical Medicine</em>, December 1936; RLHA, RLHLH/PY/U/9; Recollections of a student of the School of Physiotherapy, <em>c</em>.1960.</p>\n\n<p>[^12]: RLHA, RLHLH/S/2/44, Department of Physical Medicine Aperture Cards, Nos 26056, 24916, 25535, 24914, 29894. </p>\n",
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"body": "<p>In keeping with post-war redevelopment plans that zoned this district for industry a three-storey workshops block was erected on this site<em> </em>in the early 1970s and first used for the light engineering of metal furnishings. This was converted in the late 1990s to be thirty flats above showrooms for clothing wholesalers, and given new elevations, the upper storeys faced in plain brick. Two storeys for thirty more flats were added in 2002, when Proctor Matthews were the architects for Galliard Homes.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Tower Hamlets planning applications: Historic England Archives aerial photographs: Post Office Directories.</p>\n",
"created": "2016-08-26",
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"id": 521,
"title": "The former Working Lads' Institute, 279-281 Whitechapel Road",
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"body": "<p>This impressively tall gabled building was erected in 1884–5 and extended at the back in 1886–7 as a Working Lads’ Institute, to promote the welfare of employed boys aged thirteen and over through evening education and exercise. Facilities included a reading room, a lecture hall, a swimming bath-cum-gymnasium, classrooms and dormitories in up to six storeys across a deep site. The architect was George Baines, the contractor William Gregar of Stratford, with B. E. Nightingale of Lambeth having built the foundations. The swimming bath was excavated by about fifty unemployed men through the Mansion House Relief Fund. The loosely Renaissance red-brick and Portland stone-fronted Institute remains a landmark on Whitechapel Road. It was once hailed as ‘the loftiest building in the East End’.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>The Education Act of 1870 provided for universal education up to the age of thirteen, and thereby gave rise to concerns about the wellbeing and oversight of teenage males, particularly against the backdrops of growing unemployment and poverty and perennially poor housing. The origins of the Working Lads’ philanthropic project were with Henry Hill, junior, a well-connected City merchant, who with J. E. Saunders, Chairman of the Coal, Corn and Finance Committee of the Corporation of London, and others launched an appeal and in 1876 established an avowedly experimental institute in a house at 12 Mount Place (later 152 Whitechapel Road). Success and the stirrings of similar initiatives elsewhere in London and beyond encouraged a move to purpose-built premises. The plot to the west of Whitechapel Station (No. 275) was acquired in 1882. After a competition, a scheme designed by Henry Shaw was selected, only for the site to be taken by the District Railway Company, which in 1884 acquired the plot on the other side of the station for the Institute.[^2] That site had been owned by John Earley Cook, whose father of the same name, one of London’s most promiscuous landlords, owned the two shophouses here by 1818. A china warehouse had been built to the rear in 1845.[^3]</p>\n\n<p>Terms could not be agreed with Shaw, so he was dismissed and new designs were sought from Baines, recently arrived in London from Accrington. With royal patronage and a leading banker, Frank A. Bevan of Barclay, Bevan, Tritton & Co., as treasurer, contributions from the Corporation of London, livery companies, City vestries and wealthy individuals were amassed for the novel enterprise. Costs of more than £12,000 meant that construction had to be phased, permitting two formal openings, in October 1885 and April 1888. The premises were said to be extensive enough to accommodate 1000 boys in all. The later back part comprised the swimming-bath (52ft by 35ft), gymnasium and lecture hall, which could hold about 600. Bathing was thought particularly beneficial, as many of the lads were ‘living in confined rooms, and perhaps engaging in unhealthy occupations’.[^4] The lecture hall had stained glass, gifted by Hill and designed and executed by A. O. Hemming & Co. of Margaret Street. Three windows bore representations of Art, Religion and Industry and nine semi-circular ceiling lights depicted the seasons and sports. More land to the rear up to Winthrop Street had been secured in 1885 through a donation from Princess Louise, anonymously given, to provide a recreation ground, and to prevent extension of the music hall adjoining to the east (see 285 Whitechapel Road). Laying out as a children’s playground by the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association had involved altering plans for the back part of the Institute to make the open ground a bit larger.[^5]</p>\n\n<p>Boys were charged small subscriptions, but funding the Institute’s running costs was difficult, especially after 1891 following a banking crisis and reform of the City’s parochial funds with redirection of that source of money towards technical education. The Institute had to be put up for sale, with a plea for a rescue. A saviour was found in the shape of the Rev. Thomas Jackson, a Primitive Methodist minister and leader of an evangelical mission in Clapton, who bought the establishment for £8,000 in 1897. The original purpose was maintained – ‘to supply a counter attraction to the low Music Halls and other east end resorts for the young, which are so fatal to their social and moral well-being’,[^6] and Hill’s son and Bevan, now the first chairman of Barclay and Co. Ltd, remained on the management committee. However, the capacious rear section of the building (bath, gym and lecture hall) had to be sold and demolished in 1899–1900 to make way for the Whitechapel & Bow Railway. John Price, the line’s contractor, rebuilt the surviving six-storey back parts to reworked arrangements by George Baines and Son. The Winthrop Street playground, ‘but a very little place’, had also to be given up, even though since its opening in 1887 it had been used to an ‘enormous extent’ by local children.[^7]</p>\n\n<p>The purchase price of more than £20,000 from the railway company cleared debts and put the Institute on a secure financial footing. The now more compact premises boasted an unchanged full-width reading room for 150 on the first floor, amply lit from the front by the three bay windows. This was above a refreshment room and a lettable shop unit, first taken by a watchmaker. The smaller lecture hall at the back incorporated some of the stained glass – one round-headed window depicting the Tree of Life survives. This hall was above a reduced gymnasium – the railed flat roof to the back supplied additional exercise space but there was no more swimming. There were fireproof floors and a stone staircase, five classrooms and two workshops on the second floor, and accommodation for the superintendent and dormitories above, some with more of the displaced stained glass. The dormitories were adapted and in due course extended into other spaces for the Whitechapel Primitive Methodist Mission to provide a ‘home for friendless and orphan lads’. While making the establishment overtly religious, Jackson kept the premises open to all aged thirteen to eighteen, including many who were Jewish, and take-up shifted to a poorer section of society.[^8]</p>\n\n<p>Jackson, who died in 1932, remained active in Whitechapel, also working amongst women and prisoners and against sweated labour. The Whitechapel Mission extended across to its present site (208–212 Whitechapel Road) in 1906. The former Institute building was developed to function largely as a hostel for boys and young men, mostly those aged 17 to 21, increasingly taken from courts, with Jackson as a probation officer. The Mission moved to new premises at 208–212 Whitechapel Road in 1971 and the Institute building was sold. The upper storeys were converted to be nine flats in 1997 and the façade was restored with lettering and lamps reinstated in the High Street 2012 works.[^9]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: William Potter, <em>Thomas Jackson of Whitechapel</em>, 1929, p. 68: This account is largely based on that by Joanna Smith in an unpublished report of 2008 for English Heritage, Historic England London Historians’ File TH269: <em>The Builder</em>, 14 Feb 1885, p. 255; 10 April 1886, p. 561: <em>Building News</em>, 6 Nov 1885, p. 726: London Metropolitan Archives (LMA), District Surveyors Returns (DSR)</p>\n\n<p>[^2]:<em> The Builder</em>, 30 Sept 1876, p. 962: LMA, ACC/1926/C/9: Transport for London Group Archives (TfLGA), LT002009/465</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, P/HLC/1/14/8–9: DSR</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: LMA, ACC/1926/B/020; ACC/1926/C/008</p>\n\n<p>[^5]: <em>The Builder</em>, 25 July and 3 Oct 1885, pp. 140, 484; 28 April 1888, p. 310: <em>Pall Mall Gazette</em>, 31 Oct 1885, p 6: LMA, CLC/011/MS11097/3, pp. 297, 307–8; CLC/011/MS11097/4, pp. 25, 70, 102</p>\n\n<p>[^6]: LMA, ACC/1926/C/11</p>\n\n<p>[^7]: London County Council Minutes (LCC Mins), 24 Oct 1899, p. 1453: DSR</p>\n\n<p>[^8]: LMA, ACC/1926/B/015; ACC/1926/C/11: <em>Daily News</em>, 2 Nov 1885: LCC Mins, 9 Oct 1900, p. 1212: TfLGA, LT002009/465: Post Office Directories: The National Archives, IR58/84806/2358–60: William Potter, <em>Thomas Jackson of Whitechapel</em>, 1929, pp. 60–5</p>\n\n<p>[^9]: Bridget Cherry, Charles O'Brien and Nikolaus Pevsner, <em>The Buildings of England, London 5: East</em>, 2005, p. 430: Tower Hamlets planning applications online</p>\n",
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"properties": {
"b_number": "21",
"b_name": "Enterprise House",
"street": "Buckle Street",
"address": "Enterprise House, 21 Buckle House",
"feature_type": "WHITECHAPEL_BUILDING",
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"body": "<p>On the south side of Buckle Street, a bombsite at Nos 21–23 was developed with a warehouse of 1964–5 that was Paradise House (for B. Paradise Ltd). That was replaced in 1990 by a five-storey office block, 21 Buckle Street (Enterprise House). With red-brick facings and large flat full-height oriel windows above a polished granite base, it returns to a yard that was formerly Plough Square. It bears a resemblance to Pennine House at 26–30 Leman Street. Replacement by a thirteen-storey apart-hotel was proposed in 2016, refused permission, but allowed in 2018 on appeal by OM Luxembourg Buckle Street Apart-Hotel SARL, working with Grzywinski+Pons architects. Work began in 2020.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Tower Hamlets planning applications online: Planning Inspectorate, appeal decision 3191757</p>\n",
"created": "2020-07-31",
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{
"id": 464,
"title": "Davenant Street Development (now part of Chicksand Estate)",
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"username": "surveyoflondon"
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"properties": {
"b_number": "194-212",
"b_name": "",
"street": "Old Montague Street",
"address": "194-212 Old Montague Street",
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"body": "<p>The south side of the east end of Old Montague Street, former Rowland land that had largely come to the parish, was first built up in the early years of the nineteenth century, mostly as a series of dense courts of small houses. From west to east there was: Prince’s Place, six houses present by 1813; John’s Place, eight of around 1810; Green’s Place, six up by 1807; Eagle Place, fourteen probably built in 1806–7 for Edward Rider; Regal Place, which was Bell Court and Bell Place until 1872, twelve somewhat larger houses built for John Wildman around 1805; and Caroline Place, nine houses built for William Heudebourck in 1820, with two more added in 1853.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>All these courts except Regal Place and houses of similar scale and age facing Old Montague Street were declared unfit for human habitation and cleared in the early 1890s, in large part for the Whitechapel Foundation. Clearance of Caroline Place made way for a tenement block immediately north of the theatre named Pavilion Dwellings (208 Old Montague Street), put up in 1897–8 to designs by Ernest Rüntz. Further redevelopment at 168–182 Old Montague Street in 1927–8 produced a row of eight three-storey tenements with a rear range of tailors’ workshops, put up for T. Morris to plans by Ernest Cannell & Sons.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>At the north end of St Mary Street’s east side John Stevens had a soap factory through the middle decades of the nineteenth century. Part of this was replaced in 1881, the Whitechapel Charity Estates putting up a row of eight houses. The rest of the site became a stable yard then by the 1890s a builder’s yard, with a house, later 14 Davenant Street. That was replaced by a three-storey office building of around 1950 for Walter Gladding & Co. Ltd’s Byfield Works.[^3]</p>\n\n<p>Almost all the Davenant Street and Old Montague Street fronts and Regal Place, now derelict, belonged to the Whitechapel Foundation as plans for post-war redevelopment took shape in the 1950s as part of the North West Stepney Comprehensive Development Area, which extended from Brick Lane to Vallance Road through Mile End New Town. Work on this block was scheduled for 1962–7, with first schemes of 1960 prepared under Kenneth Campbell in the LCC’s Housing Division projecting four- and six-storey slab blocks, one alternative allowing for a large roundabout at the Vallance Road–Whitechapel Road junction. The LCC cleared the Pavilion Theatre and its environs, and the Peabody Donation Fund (Trust) put forward schemes by F. E. F. Atkinson, Peabody’s surveyor, envisaging two eleven-storey Y-plan towers or four five-storey blocks. These were rejected as too dense and an ‘unfortunate’ interruption of ‘comprehensive development’. In 1965 a Queen Mary College application to build a student hostel on the site was refused for similar reasons. The transfer of remaining lands from the Davenant Foundation and others to the GLC was secured after a public inquiry in 1968 and most of the disused school buildings along with 156–182 Old Montague Street, Regal Place and the King’s Head public house were set to be cleared to make way for 154 new homes.[^4]</p>\n\n<p>It had been grasped that even with the lands assembled the site presented considerable constraints given the presence of listed buildings and the Post Office tunnel running under the site, the need to avoid building on a former burial ground, and an expectation that Vallance Road would be widened westwards. Type plans were prepared in the early 1970s and numbers were whittled down to 101 dwellings in blocks of three and five storeys as inclusion of the south-east corner of the block (181–195 Whitechapel Road and 1–13 Vallance Road) was abandoned. Tenders submitted in 1975 had all to be rejected in the face of difficulties reconciling them with the government’s ‘yardstick’ requirements. A failed scheme to overcome the burial-ground restrictions ran the project further into the ground in 1977. Through all this the scheme had passed across the desks of numerous council architects, from Norman Engleback to John Bancroft to Barry Udall. It was revived in 1981, this time as just sixty-one dwellings (forty-nine houses in five rows and twelve flats at 194–212 Old Montague Street) all in three-storey blocks. GLC architects settled the elevations, materials and a subdued echelon layout along with internal type plans for a ‘develop and construct’ contract that went to William J. Jerram Ltd of Barking who worked up details with Housing Systems Design. Small-panel timber-frame structures faced with Ockley Medium Multi dark-brown bricks and white cement render, went up under tiled roofs in 1983–5. Moss Close took its name from Moss’s Buildings, which had been on the other side of Davenant Street, Regal Close from the earlier court on the same site. The row at 15–35 Vallance Road was set back in anticipation of the road widening that did not happen. What was understood as the former burial ground, roughly the site so used from 1795 to 1853 minus its east end, was left open and persists as a grass mound.[^5]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: London Metropolitan Archives (hereafter LMA), A/DAV/01/018; MDR 1807/2/109; 1820/7/324: The National Archives (hereafter TNA), ED27/3240: Richard Horwood's map, 1813: District Surveyors Returns (DSR): Metropolitan Board of Works Minutes, 5 Jan. 1872, p. 55</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: LMA, A/DAV/02/001, pp.106, 212, 288; A/DAV/02/002, pp.17–18; LCC/EO/PS/03/165: DSR: London County Council Minutes, 5 Oct. 1897, p. 979: Goad insurance map 1953</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: TNA, ED27/3239: Post Office Directories: <em>The Builder</em>, 26 Feb. 1881, p. 261: DSR: Goad insurance map 1953</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: LMA, A/DAV/08/001; GLC/AR/CON/03/134/003; GLC/DG/PRB/35/006/639: Goad insurance map, 1953: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, L/THL/D/1/1/65; /249: Roland Reynolds, <em>History of the Davenant Foundation School</em>, 1966, p. 59: Ordnance Survey map, 1969: Historic England Archives, aerial photographs</p>\n\n<p>[^5]: LMA, GLC/AR/CON/03/134/001–003; GLC/AR/CON/09/A2850/001–2; GLC/DG/AE/ROL/42/099: Historic England, London historians’ file TH1</p>\n",
"created": "2017-08-25",
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{
"id": 379,
"title": "Being toilet paper monitor at Robert Montefiore School",
"author": {
"id": 22,
"username": "sarahannmilne"
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"body": "<p>Rosemarie's memories of going to school at Robert Montefiore in 1960s:</p>\n\n<p>I was toilet paper monitor when I reached the upper ages of the school. Toilet paper was not in abundance at the school. We used Izal paper which not so many people remember now. You were given the duty of standing outside the loos (girls and boys) and giving two sheets of paper to each person who entered. Only two sheets! You'd never do that now.</p>\n",
"created": "2017-06-03",
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{
"id": 945,
"title": "Whitechapel High Street's south side up to the Second World War",
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"b_name": "The White Chapel Building (former Sedgwick Centre)",
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"body": "<p><em>Courts and alleys</em></p>\n\n<p>Whitechapel High Street’s southern frontage was probably more or less built up in the sixteenth century before Stow reported ‘On the Southside of the high way from Ealdgate, were some few tenements thinly scattered, here & there, with many voyd spaces between them, up to the Bars, but now that street is not only fully replenished with building outward, & also pestered with diverse Allyes, on eyther side to the Barres, but to white Chappell and beyond.’[^1]</p>\n\n<p>By the late seventeenth century the diverse alleys were legion, many taking their names from the street’s numerous inns. They were generally built up with small cottages, also a few substantial houses, ostensibly domestic spaces being no doubt also in use for industrial purposes. From the later eighteenth century humble housing on courts and alleys gradually gave way to purpose-built commercial premises such as workshops or warehouses. Newly formed Pavement Commissioners for the High Street settled its numbering in August 1771. It has stayed essentially unchanged since. To account for the courts and alleys, running from west to east, it will help orientation to use that street numbering consistently, if sometimes anachronistically.[^2]</p>\n\n<p>By 1674 Irish Court was behind Nos 4–5, holding seven houses, two with seven and eight hearths. These were replaced with warehousing around 1780 and the court survived up to the 1940s when the area was bombed. White Hart Court Yard, behind No. 10 and two other eight-hearth properties on the High Street, had nineteen houses in the 1670s, one of twelve hearths pertaining to Elizabeth, Lady Mellowes (d. 1692), five others having eight and nine hearths. Eagle and Child Alley with seventeen one- to four-hearth houses in the 1670s later became Horns Yard or Court and was largely cleared in the 1790s. Half Moon Court, between Nos 17 and 18 and still enduring at its south end, held twenty-one houses in 1675, all of three hearths except that of Thomas Peake who had eleven hearths; by 1800 Half Moon Court was recorded as having only eleven small houses. Peacock Court had eighteen one- to six-hearth houses in the 1670s, but then disappears from reckonings. Elephant Court’s eight-hearth property was probably an eponymous inn, held in 1675 by ‘Lockworth & Cannon etc’, otherwise the place had just four two- and three-hearth houses. Twelve houses lasted into the 1750s on what became Elephant & Castle Court by 1841, not long before its demise. Swan Court or Yard lay between Nos 20 and 21 and had about twelve confined and back-less small houses through the eighteenth century up to 1874–5 when they were replaced with a Pickford’s goods and parcel depot. Red Lion Street intersected on the site of No. 31 from around 1685.</p>\n\n<p>Continuing eastwards, by the 1670s Whittington’s Cat Alley was between Nos 34 and 35 with ten one- to three-hearth houses, close to Greyhound Alley, four one- and two-hearth houses, Tobacco Pipe Alley, three one- and two-hearth houses, and Window Alley, ten one- to four-hearth houses. Cock Alley appears to have been renamed or redeveloped in the late eighteenth century as Barley Mow Court, stitched in behind Nos 38–40 with five to eight small houses. Plough Alley, between Nos 44 and 45, had nineteen one- to four-hearth houses in the 1670s, but Plough Street replaced it around 1700. Baptist’s Head Alley, with seven one- to three-hearth houses, and Clarke Alley, seven one- and two-hearth houses, were recorded in the 1670s, apparently succeeded by Woolsack Alley and Darts Alley between Nos 47 and 48. </p>\n\n<p>Drum Alley had twenty-one and King’s Head Alley nine one- and two-hearth houses in 1675. Drum Court or Yard between Nos 50 and 51 had ten small houses in 1790. Last Alley, with seventeen one- to six-hearth houses in the 1670s, appears to have become Dyers Yard between Nos 51 and 52 with only four small houses in 1800. Bull (or Bulke) Stake Alley, between Nos 58 and 59, where John James (d. 1661) led a congregation of Seventh Day Baptists, had eighteen one- to three-hearth houses in the 1670s, but only five houses in 1800. Finally, there was Hatchet Alley (later Spectacle Alley, now Whitechurch Passage), off which lay Adam and Eve Court.</p>\n\n<p>Some of these houses, many of which would have been timber built and weatherboarded, survived into the twentieth century, as on the west side of Half Moon Passage where seven very small cottages stood behind No. 20 and in front of a brass foundry.[^3] </p>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p><em>Public houses</em></p>\n\n<p>The names of the courts and alleys have given some indication of the High Street’s public houses, recorded here again from west to east. The Three Tuns was at 1 Whitechapel High Street by 1740. It was modestly rebuilt in brick in 1922–3 to plans by William Stewart, architect, for Mann Crossman Paulin of the Albion Brewery. It came down in the 1960s.[^4] </p>\n\n<p>The White Hart, on the site of Nos 9–10, was present by the 1670s and may well have had much earlier origins. To its rear was the largest and longest-lived inn yard on this side of the High Street, comprehending not just stabling but once also many dwellings with some substantial houses (see above). To the front there was a five-bay eighteenth-century building with a central pediment. The pub, sometimes the White Hart and Three Tobacco Pipes, appears to have closed before 1800, after which the White Hart name settled on the other side of the High Street. The Mercers Company owned both the High Street’s White Hart properties. James Spalding (d. 1780) took No. 9 by 1750 as premises for a grocery and tea-dealing business that became Spalding, Clarence and Millikin after he was joined by William Clarence and Halley Benson Millikin (<em>c.</em>1750–1826). Its large back warehouse was built in the 1780s, possibly also the date of the front range. Spalding was a partner in sugar-refining businesses and Millikin was himself a sugar refiner elsewhere after 1800.[^5] Peter Simmonds, who had been the White Hart’s last innholder, carried on as a keeper of livery stables in the yard. These continued into the 1850s, followed by a wholesale provisioning depot up to the 1880s. The pedimented front range survived in reconstructed form up to the 1960s.[^6] </p>\n\n<p>The Horns at No. 16, possibly preceded thereabouts by the Eagle and Child in the late seventeenth century, appears to have been established around 1836 by James Thomas Reynolds in what would then have been a new building. It continued till the 1920s.[^7] </p>\n\n<p>The White Swan Inn (later just the Swan) at No. 20 was present by the eighteenth century and into the 1920s. The Elephant and Castle at No. 23, likely to have had early origins further west, closed in the 1860s, but had a second life, reappearing from the 1950s to the early 1980s. The Talbot Inn, at No. 25 by the 1690s, was a large establishment in a six-bay four-storey and attic eighteenth-century building. It closed sometime after 1810 and William Coates & Co., City wine merchants, took the premises around 1825. Coates & Co. extended to the Elephant and Castle and rebuilt Nos 22–23 in 1869–71 with James Harrison as their architect, erecting extensive warehousing to the rear. For a time Nos 22–23 were Frederick King’s retail wine stores, but the group at Nos 22–26 continued as W. Coates & Co., then Percy Fox Ltd, all the while wine stores. Retention and refurbishment of the front buildings at Nos 24–26 was intended in 1978, but demolition ensued in the early 1980s.[^8] </p>\n\n<p>The Red Cow Inn at No. 26 was a short-lived establishment of the eighteenth-century’s middle decades. Next east at No. 30, later No. 29, was the Red Lion, an inn of much greater longevity that was acquired and rebuilt in 1682–5 to allow formation of the eponymous street through its site. It was in 1810 the birthplace of William John Little (1810–1894), son of John and Hannah Little, the pub’s proprietors. Afflicted with a club foot from infancy, Little rose to renown as an orthopaedic surgeon. The pub was rebuilt for the last time in 1903 as the Old Red Lion,a big blowsy corner boozer with ample architraving in four storeys. Its ground-floor front became an entrance to Aldgate East Station in 1937–8, but the pub continued through to the 1990s and was only demolished around 2004.[^9] </p>\n\n<p>The Whittington & Cat at No. 35, of seventeenth-century or earlier origins, was cleared in the 1860s. No. 36 was the Bunch of Grapes Coffee House by 1760, converted to be a wine and brandy merchants by 1780. The Barley Mow was at No. 39 by 1730, but gone before the end of the century. The Hat & Plough was at No. 44 by 1760 and was raised in 1853 only to be displaced in 1874.[^10] </p>\n\n<p>The Cock existed as ‘the Cok’ in the late 1450s when Alice, who had been Simon Cok’s wife, went to law against Thomas Hosewyf, the property owner. It may have had its origins on a site further west, given the presence of Cock Alley, but by the 1830s it was at No. 45, east of Plough Street, where there had been a brandy merchant since before 1770. The Cock was rebuilt in 1872–3 extending back to 9 Commercial Road, to designs by W. W. Browne, architect, with Thomas Ennor as builder. F. Beger took an eighty-year lease and William Henry Price was the first licensee. It kept going into the 1920s and the building was not demolished until 2008.[^11] </p>\n\n<p>The King’s Head was on the site of No. 49, run by Thomas Redwood in 1730. It became the Yorkshire Gray in the 1740s and was rebuilt at Nos 48–49 in 1875, further alterations in 1884 being to plans by Wilson, Son & Aldwinckle. The Yorkshire Gray continued up to the early 1960s.[^12] </p>\n\n<p>The Bull and Stake, run by William Gibbons in 1730, was perhaps renamed the White Horse and Leaping Post, which was on the site of No. 58 by 1750. Later becoming the Horse & Leaping Bar, it was rebuilt in 1892–4 for and by Francis Gill, a publican and builder who had a run-in with the LCC, which enforced demolition of parts of his new building. The pub closed in the 1930s. Associated livery stables across Bull Stake Court at No. 59 were newly formed in 1815.[^13]</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p><em>Other early commerce</em></p>\n\n<p>Through the eighteenth century the thoroughly commercial south side of Whitechapel High Street housed numerous butchers, grocers, cheesemongers and oil and colourmen. The notable clutch of butchery with slaughterhouses just outside the City boundary at Nos 2–7 was an extension of what was known as Butcher Row on the south side of Aldgate High Street, present by the late sixteenth century and continuing, though diminished, into the 1950s.[^14]</p>\n\n<p>Thomas Quarill, a substantial oil and colourman, a Paving Commissioner and Governor of the London Hospital, had significant premises at No. 11 by 1740 at which Luke Alder succeeded. Robert Buttery (<em>c.</em>1710–1793) was a seedsman and corn chandler at No. 15 from the 1750s. After the death of his wife in 1773, he owned five High Street properties and land in Irish Court and retired to Hertfordshire. His premises were recast in the early nineteenth century.[^15] </p>\n\n<p>William Claxton, a china, pot and glass seller, had premises at No. 24 from the 1760s that were identified as a ‘Staffordshire Warehouse’ in 1800. Isaac Colnett (d. 1801) was a blacksmith, ironmonger and tiresmith at No. 27 from the 1750s.[^16] </p>\n\n<p>John Ellison, a druggist, was at No. 33 from the 1750s to his death in 1790. A large building went up for his successor, Jonathan Jordan. Redbourn Tomkins (<em>c.</em>1711–1792), a Baptist and another hospital governor, was a successful tallow chandler at No. 42 from the 1740s.[^17] </p>\n\n<p>Francis Laurson (d. 1777), a scrivener who lived in West Ham, had offices at No. 51 by 1740 up to his death. He was succeeded by his clerk, William Argill, who was West Ham’s Vestry Clerk and who styled himself an attorney. The late-seventeenth- or early eighteenth-century three-storey brick house with a centre-staircase layout at No. 51 stood into the 1890s, weather-boarded and timber-framed on its return to Drum Yard.[^18] </p>\n\n<p>William Hamilton, an undertaker and Treasurer of the High Street’s Paving Commissioners, was at No. 54 in the mid eighteenth century. Henry Mowtlow (<em>c.</em>1664–1740), a clock maker, whose surviving pieces fetch handsome sums, and parish clerk, had been at No. 56. Joseph Gwyn (d. 1773) was a carpenter and coachmaker at No. 60 from the 1740s.[^19]</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n\n<p><em>1–53 Whitechapel High Street: 1840s to 1930s</em></p>\n\n<p>Parts of the south side of the High Street began to be sacrificed for the sake of better road circulation. Nos 31–34 were cleared in the 1840s for the widening of Red Lion Street as the north end of Leman Street, a crucial link in the road north from the docks that continued as Commercial Street. The resultant new major junction, also the middle of the Haymarket, had its centre marked in 1853 by an obelisk that had been a part of the Great Exhibition, purchased by the parish of Whitechapel.[^20]</p>\n\n<p>Nos 35–43 were cleared for the westwards extension of Commercial Road that was approved in 1865 and carried through in 1869–70. The junction was soon further transformed. Tramways tore up the road from 1888; electrification and overhead lines followed in 1906–7. The obelisk came down in 1913 and the Haymarket closed in 1928.[^21] </p>\n\n<p>Meanwhile numerous High Street properties were redeveloped. A shophouse rebuilding at No. 50 that appears to have escaped visual record, having been reconstructed in 1929, was lavished with unusual praise in 1858 in <em>The Builder</em>, a whole column’s worth, for avoiding the monotony of then standard Italianate dressings, instead favouring simple red-brick and functional dressings. The architect was the otherwise little-feted Charles Bennett Arding.[^22] </p>\n\n<p>The Commercial Road’s extension opened up development sites east of the new junction. Gardiner & Co., Glasgow clothiers and Army contractors, took the plum triangular corner plot in 1872 for the erection of a department store. J. H. H. and J. Gardiner’s London agent was Thomas Corbett, and the firm employed George Aitchison junior, whose practice was strongly east London based, to be its architect. Whitechapel High Street’s largest shop resulted at 31–35 Whitechapel High Street and 1–5 Commercial Road. When it opened in 1874, Gardiner & Co. secured a contract worth £150,000 to supply the Metropolitan Police (10,000 officers) and government dockyards with clothing for five years. This austerely classical department store was Whitechapel High Street’s dominant building for a century, prominent and markedly up-scale for its location, which became known as Gardiner’s Corner, a firm print on Whitechapel’s sense of place. Continuing to specialise in military uniforms and children’s clothing, Gardiner’s was extended eastwards along Commercial Road and then in 1899 raised by two storeys and given a prominent clock turret that rose to 130ft, the top-heavy result wrecking Aitchison’s proportions. John Wallis Chapman (1843–1915) was the architect of this addition, Holliday & Greenwood the builders. By this time the establishment called itself ‘The Scotch House’. Gardiner’s closed in 1971 and the building was destroyed by a spectacular fire in 1972.[^23] </p>\n\n<p>Immediately eastwards, No. 44 (formerly the Hat and Plough and keeping the old numbering) was redeveloped in 1874 as the Aldgate Turkish Baths, again with George Aitchison as architect. Run by James Forder and Henry Nevill, this followed on from an earlier establishment of theirs at London Bridge. Of four storeys and in line with Gardiner’s, it had one entrance for men on the High Street and another for women to the rear at 7 Commercial Road. It was a success and the firm opened other Turkish Baths, as at New Broad Street (Bishopsgate Churchyard) in 1895, which survives. From 1908 the chain of premises was incorporated as Nevill’s Turkish Baths Ltd and the Whitechapel establishment endured up to the Second World War. The building was demolished in the 1970s.[^24] </p>\n\n<p>Across Plough Court was the Cock (see above), also rebuilt in the 1870s, and then No. 46, rebuilt in 1883 for E. R. Goodrich to designs by John Hudson, architect, and extending to 11 Commercial Road at the back. Stepney Labour Exchange was here for a few years around 1910, moving to Nos 59–60 in the 1920s. No. 47 was rebuilt with 13 Commercial Road in 1921–2 as a factory for Sam and Joseph Hyman Tym, underclothing manufacturers. Nos 45–47 stood until 2008. Nos 51 and 52–53 were rebuilt in 1896–7 for F. G. Debenham and J. Nathan respectively. Harvey Dyball was the architect at No. 51, and Nos 52–53, intended as a shop and dwelling rooms, were soon taken by the St Ursula Working Girls’ Club.[^25] </p>\n\n<p>Returning to the west, Nos 11–14 and buildings behind on White Hart Yard were cleared for the formation of the Metropolitan and Metropolitan District Railway underground extension to Whitechapel in the early 1880s. The site, a short distance south-east of Aldgate East Station, was left open either side of an access bridge to ventilate the steam-powered railway below. Upon electrification of the line, Edwin Bell, a builder trading as Bell & Co., acquired the site and in 1907–9 developed it with Aldgate East Chambers, a broad six-bay and four-storey shop, office and workroom speculation with a central arch to maintain access to White Hart Yard. Undeterred by a fine for the use of poor-quality bricks, Bell introduced a ‘Bioscope Exhibition Room’ or cinema at No. 12 in 1910, extended to Nos 9–10 and 16 in 1909–11 and enlarged further to the rear for workshops and showrooms in 1913–15. Early tenants were mainly tailors and furriers, with a restaurant and the Scottish Sanitary Laundry alongside. The back buildings were destroyed and those to the front damaged by a bomb strike in the Second World War. No. 7 had been separately rebuilt with a gable front in 1907, to plans by W. A. Lewis for William Gower, a fishmonger. John Hawkins & Son, wholesale tea dealers and grocers, were at Nos 17–19 from the 1840s until clearance in the early 1960s, though by 1920 No. 19 had been given up to Jacob Levy, a cycle agent who soon branched into importing jazz records, sold from Levy’s at this address into the 1950s. No. 17 became a branch of Tesco Stores Ltd by 1960, shortly before clearance.[^26] </p>\n\n<p>Redevelopment at the High Street’s west end followed the widening of Mansell Street on its City side and the First World War. Nos 2–4 were rebuilt in two parts in 1922–3, at the same time as the adjoining Three Tuns (see above), as four-storey and attic rag-trade workshops for Scales & Leuw, meat salesmen, and Mrs Ray Mercado, a confectioner, with H. A. Porter as architect. There were additions in 1928 for Skolnick, Lipton and Guttridge Ltd, hosiery manufacturers, by when blouse-making and the London Board of Shechita were also housed. No. 6 was a shophouse with a billiard hall of 1923–4. Hosiery and millinery were strong presences here up to clearance in the 1960s.[^27] </p>\n\n<p>A boot and shoe warehouse at Nos 27–28 was sold at auction in 1920 and redeveloped to be a branch of Lloyd’s Bank in 1922–3, also occupied by the Sun Life Assurance Company. This was a restrained three-bay neo-Georgian building, a minor example of the stylishness brought to Lloyd’s Bank’s architecture by Horace Field. It was demolished around 2004.[^28]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: John Stow, <em>A Survey of London</em>, 1603, ed. C. L. Kingsford, 1908, vol.1, p.127</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives (THLHLA), L/SMW/C/2/1</p>\n\n<p>[^3]: William Morgan's map of 1682: John Rocque's map of 1746: Richard Horwood's maps of 1799 and 1813: The National Archives (TNA), hearth-tax returns 1674–5: <em>Oxford Dictionary of National Biography (ODNB) sub</em> James: London Metropolitan Archives (LMA), Land Tax Returns (LT); District Surveyors Returns (DSR); Collage 3455: Ancestry</p>\n\n<p>[^4]: Post Office Directories (POD): LMA, Collage 121852; LT; DSR</p>\n\n<p>[^5]: LMA, MR/LV/8/68; CLC/B/192/F/001/MS11936/360/556370; 11936/447/828725: LT: Mercers Company Archives, Dean Colet Estate Plans, 1821–3, plate 1; 1823–34, plate 33: Museum in Docklands, Shadwell portfolio, folder 7, sheet 3: information kindly supplied by Andrew Byrne: TNA, PROB11/1064/165: Bryan Mawer's sugar-refining database: LMA, Collage 121781 </p>\n\n<p>[^6]: POD: Goad insurance maps: DSR: LMA, Collage 121852</p>\n\n<p>[^7]: LT: POD: information supplied by Stephen Harris</p>\n\n<p>[^8]: LT: POD: <em>The Builder</em>, 23 Oct 1869, p.854: DSR: Goad, 1887, 1924 and 1960: LMA, Collage 121843,167445; P93/MRY1/091, p.144; GLC/DG/PUB/01/28/U1622</p>\n\n<p>[^9]: TNA, C5/99/23; C7/58/2: LMA,MR/LV/6/79: LT: <em>ODNB sub</em> Little: DSR: POD</p>\n\n<p>[^10]: LMA, MR/LV/7/49; MR/LV/8/68: LT: POD</p>\n\n<p>[^11]: TNA, C1/26/357: LT: <em>The Builder</em>, 20 July 1872, p.574: DSR: POD: LMA, LMA/4673/D/09/02/002, f.51; Collage 121955: information supplied by Stephen Harris</p>\n\n<p>[^12]: DSR: <em>The Builder</em>, 3 May 1884, p.629: LT: POD</p>\n\n<p>[^13]: LT: LMA, MR/LV/05/026; MR/LV/06/079: THLHLA, P/HLC/1/14/6: POD: London County Council Minutes (LCC Mins), 28 Feb, 13–14 June and 3 Oct 1893, pp.200,613,649,930: information supplied by Stephen Harris</p>\n\n<p>[^14]: LT: POD: LMA, P93/MRY1/091, p.23: Historic England Archives, Mayson Beeton Collection J1001141: John Strype, <em>A Survey of the Cities of London and Westminster</em>, vol.1/2<em>, </em>1720, p.27: Daniel Defoe, <em>A Journal of the Plague Year</em>, 1722 (edn 1969), p.171</p>\n\n<p>[^15]: LT: TNA, PROB11/1229/237: Hertfordshire Record Office, DE/B737/T42: <em>General Evening Post</em>, 14 March 1793: Derek Morris, <em>Whitechapel</em>, 2011, pp.58,143</p>\n\n<p>[^16]: TNA, PROB11/1357/258: LT</p>\n\n<p>[^17]: TNA, PROB11/1189/161: LT: Ancestry</p>\n\n<p>[^18]: LT: TNA, PROB11/1036/57: <em>Public Advertiser</em>, 15 Jan 1783: THLHLA, Building Control file 41778</p>\n\n<p>[^19]: TNA, PROB11/702/484; PROB11/984/309: LT: <em>Antiques Trade Gazette</em>, 2 Feb 2004: Morris, 2011, p.15</p>\n\n<p>[^20]: <em>The Builder</em>, 19 Feb 1853, p.116</p>\n\n<p>[^21]: Metropolitan Board of Works Minutes (MBW Mins), 10 Feb 1888, p.265: LMA, Collage 231467–8, 231472, 231494, 231498</p>\n\n<p>[^22]: <em>The Builder</em>, 11 Sept 1858, p.613: DSR</p>\n\n<p>[^23]: DSR: MBW Mins, 10 May 1872, p.676; 22 May 1874, p.632; 13 May 1881, p.790: TNA, ED27/3242: POD: <em>Daily Telegraph and Courier</em>, 23 April 1874: <em>Glasgow Herald</em>, 12 Nov 1874: LCC Mins, 27 June 1899, p.950: <em>Financial Times</em>, 24 May 1976</p>\n\n<p>[^24]: MBW Mins, 1 April 1874, p.449: POD: <em>The Globe</em>, 15 April 1875: Malcolm Shifrin, <em>Victorian Turkish Baths</em>, 2015</p>\n\n<p>[^25]: DSR: POD: <em>The Builder</em>, 13 Jan. 1883, p.63: MBW Mins, 25 June 1880, p.898: THLHLA, Building Control file 41778: LMA, Collage 121954–5</p>\n\n<p>[^26]: Transport for London Group Archives, LT000612/030: DSR: POD: LCC Mins, 23 April and 18 June 1907, pp.842,1278; 11 Oct 1910, p.521: LMA, GLC/MA/SC/03/1336; Collage 121846,121852–4</p>\n\n<p>[^27]: DSR: Goad, 1924: LMA, Collage 121852: POD</p>\n\n<p>[^28]: DSR: POD: <em>Estates Gazette</em>, 21 Feb 1920, p.268: Timothy Brittain-Catlin, ‘Horace Field and Lloyds Bank’, <em>Architectural History</em>, vol.53, 2010, pp.271–94</p>\n\n<p> </p>\n",
"created": "2019-08-15",
"last_edited": "2020-09-11"
},
{
"id": 270,
"title": "Some historical notes on the Artful Dodger",
"author": {
"id": 85,
"username": "stephen.r.harris"
},
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"b_number": "47",
"b_name": "The Artful Dodger (formerly the Crown and Seven Stars)",
"street": "Royal Mint Street",
"address": "The Artful Dodger (formerly the Crown and Seven Stars) public house, 47 Royal Mint Street",
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"body": "<p>I have an unsubstantiated note that this pub was present in Rosemary Lane by 1764. But the early history of the pub is confused by the possibility that there may have been another pub in Rosemary Lane called the Seven Stars (the address of the Crown & Seven Stars seems to have been given consistently as 47 Rosemary Lane, whilst I have the other Seven Stars as at 22 Rosemary Lane - but these could well have been one and the same premises).</p>\n\n<p>The first licensee I have been able to name is George Beaumont, who in 1803 held an insurance policy on the Crown & Seven Stars with the Sun Fire Office.</p>\n\n<p>The impressive relief of a crown and seven stars at the top of the building is said to have been added to the frontage in 1888, the work of one C J Reynolds - and it seems likely that the words 'Warehouse' and 'Retail & Wholesale' date also from this time. This old signage has led some to conclude that the building served formerly as a warehouse of some sort before it became a pub; but these are in fact routine words used to describe a fully-licensed pub that also sold wine and spirits on a wholesale basis, a trade which would have been important for a pub located so close to the docks. The attractive ground-floor frontage with its cast iron columns may also date from this time.</p>\n\n<p>The pub became tied to the Ind Coope Brewery, but closed in 1981. It re-opened, following substantial refurbishment, as the Artful Dodger some four years later in September 1985.</p>\n",
"created": "2017-01-30",
"last_edited": "2019-05-16"
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{
"id": 778,
"title": "Fanny Pivnick's shop",
"author": {
"id": 274,
"username": "Lipman"
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"properties": {
"b_number": "109",
"b_name": "Catering City",
"street": "Fieldgate Street",
"address": "Catering City, 109 Fieldgate Street (with 99 New Road and former garage to rear)",
"feature_type": "WHITECHAPEL_BUILDING",
"count": 3,
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"body": "<p>My maternal grandmother, Fanny Pivnick, had a trimmings shop in Fieldgate Street (No. 109), at the New Road end, and there was a kosher butcher close by her shop (No. 103). My parents were members of the <a href=\"https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/837/detail/\">Fieldgate Street shul</a>, at the other end of the Street. Midway along Fieldgate as the <a href=\"https://surveyoflondon.org/map/feature/839/detail/\">Rowton House</a>, a large building to which homeless men would go for warmth and safety at night.</p>\n",
"created": "2018-11-21",
"last_edited": "2018-11-21"
},
{
"id": 967,
"title": "Osborn House, 9-13 Osborn Street",
"author": {
"id": 2,
"username": "surveyoflondon"
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"properties": {
"b_number": "9-13",
"b_name": "9-13 Osborn Street",
"street": "Osborn Street",
"address": "Osborn House, 9-13 Osborn Street",
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"body": "<p>Osborn House<strong> </strong>is a two-storey and basement workshop–showroom building on the site of three shophouses of 1848–9 destroyed in the Second World War. It was built in 1951 for M. E. Goldstein, whose firm, M. A. Goldstein & Sons, Clapton textile merchants, occupied the ground floor until the 1970s. The architect was W. J. Hughes of Mill Hill, the builders T. Whyman and Son Ltd of Hackney.[^1]</p>\n\n<p>By 1959 the basement was in use as a recording studio, first by Southern Cross (Africa) Ltd, and from 1960 to 1972 by City of London Recording Studios, specialising in radio recordings and newsreel voiceovers. Lulu was spotted here in 1963. A place in the moshpit of rock history was ensured by subsequent use. In 1973 a new recording studio, Sarm (from Sound and Recording Mobiles, as the owners had previously run a tape-copying business), opened under sister and brother Jill and John Sinclair, with Mike Stone and Gary Lyons as engineers. Sarm’s sophisticated (24-track) equipment attracted musicians and producers. Much of Queen’s albums <em>A Night at the Opera</em> and <em>A Day at the Races</em> of 1975 and 1976 were mixed here, including the technically ground-breaking single, <em>Bohemian Rhapsody</em>. Trevor Horn, the bassist and producer who achieved fame through the Buggles, was another habitué. After he married Jill Sinclair in 1980, many more hit singles and albums were produced here by, <em>inter alios</em>, Yes, ABC, Frankie Goes to Hollywood and the Art of Noise. Sinclair and Horn acquired a west London base in 1983, but kept Osborn House as Sarm East until 2001. The basement studio then became an audio school and facility called the London Recording Studios, later the London Music School, but the building’s connection to music ended in 2015.[^2] Upper floors have been variously used since the 1970s as a hairdressing salon, lawyer’s office and, most persistently, an accountant’s.[^3]</p>\n\n<p>[^1]: Tower Hamlets Local History Library and Archives, Building Control file 14705: Post Office Directories (POD)</p>\n\n<p>[^2]: Howard Massey, <em>The Great British Recording Studios</em>, 2105: <a href=\"http://sarmmusicvillage.com/our-history/\">sarmmusicvillage.com/our-history/</a>: POD: <a href=\"https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/06428290/filing-history\">beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/06428290/filing-history</a></p>\n\n<p>[^3]: POD: <a href=\"https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/06536263\">beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/06536263</a> and 09346387</p>\n",
"created": "2019-10-04",
"last_edited": "2019-10-04"
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}